Cannondaleriders

I pinched the wires on the left side of the bike. Is injector b on the left side?

****** is right. You may have damaged the fuel injector wire though like you said. Remember it is an electrical fault code, so the electric is not getting to injector B.

Before panicking check the connector then close the software and open it again and check one more time. Make sure the ecu is on by priming the bike once. Then check fault codes. I have had random codes pop up. So don't panick yet. It still may be your problem, but keep an open mind here.

There you go simple fix. Sometimes the injector pins can be bent by not installing them squarely. Make sure they are in the center and the injector plug goes on easy with a good click of the retainer.
if you do have cut wires they need to be soldered and heat shrink tubing must be used or you will be in trouble later.

Well. I found one loose injector connection and got rid of the fault, I reset the TPS setting if I understand this right I am suppose to determine the TPS setting with Idle adustment screw all the way out then turn it in 3x that amount . Base setting was 3.9 I turned the screw until I got 6.9 still no start. Tomorrow I will change the plug maybe I fouled it and I will take off the top of the airbox off and see if I can see if the injectors squirting. One thing I was wondering is there any way to tell if the new map that was uploaded at Black Widow actually loaded successfully?

What is the Calibration # that is loaded onto the ecu?

Something isnt right here.3.9 is really high.Maybe your cable was tight when you did the throttle cal.Loosen it up and visually check after closing throttle with hand at throttle wheel.The stop should be off the idle screw by about a 1/16in.Then you need to do the max setting by holding throttle open with your hand.
To tell if the map loaded check for fuel like said.Before you did the throttle cal you also hit the recieve from ECU button and then injector cals only?If so then if you got numbers a map was in there.

I actually took the idle screw out but I really could not swear that the throttle was fully close because you can't see much the way it is buried. I pulled the radiator last night so I can get a better look at it today. I will check if the cable is pulling on the throttle. I must have a map as I did receive a response from the ecu receive button. Wannablaze; I am not sure how to answer your question about the calibration #. Is that the one of the original numbers that I recorded when I first used the D&M? Or is that the position of the throttle when the screw is backed out all the way?
Dan

Ok what you should have done before the throttle recal was recieve all settings. This gets the map and all settings out of the ecu. Write those numbers down and then do a throttle recal. One thing I have seen is people overwrite their original map with what is in your computer. Then do all the other things mentioned. As for the cal # every map has a number I think it is 5 or 6 numbers long. It shows up on the bottom of all the settings. This lets you know exactly what map is being loaded or changed.

Dont need to recieve all settings.Just injector settings since he is doing a throttle cal anyway.Map in ECU will not be overridden.Just settings.Its quicker that way and you stand less of a chance of losing the map thats in the quad.It happens!Important thing is to be sure your throttle is closed.Use your hand and turn it you can feel when it is closed.Disconnect the throttle cable just to be sure.