Start a new thread with all the changes and the page number just like the post above and I can update the manual easy enough.
Ok I printed the revised paperwork. I'll swap out the incorrect pages. I have the motor back on the bench. I pulled the cams to check them. The double verticle dots are straight up with the lobes on intake and exhaust cams. Does it really matter were the pins go as long as the double verticle dots are in line with the cam lobes? Also thanks a BUNCH for the updates!!! It's good to see you guys still support the dales.
Mark, you are thinking right. If the vertical dots align with the points of the cam lobes, then you are at stock gear-alignment, and there is no need to pull the gears off to check -- something else must be amiss with the timing or compression.
So, does that mean that you mis-read a wrong manual, and just happened to get the cams right anyway? LOL
Or, that may mean that you installed multi-drilled 12-hole cams, but you also watched for the vertical gear-dot alignment for your zero point on the cam gears...if that is done, you could choose any 2 opposite pins, or 4 pins, or use all 12 pins.
No.Holes are in 2degree increments its not enough to see with eye.Need to degree them.That said if two dots are lined up by eye its probably close enough for motor to run.Most important thing is always to do the tooth count.Always.Lining up the marks on gears is not enough.Do the tooth count.Biggest mistake in timing.Is very easy to be off a tooth unless doing count.
Ok guys, I got the quad to start. I poured a little bit of oil in the cylinder and it started. Now another problem arises. When I tap the throttle, it shuts off. It will idle fine until I tap the throttle. Could that be a case of calibrating the EFI?
Did you let it warm up for about 5 minutes? Sometimes it takes longer than that when they have been sitting a LONG time. When I fired mine up after over 3 months of sitting it took about 5-7 minutes to just idle properly. Finally I was able to rev it up and clear it out.
Ok I printed the revised paperwork. I'll swap out the incorrect pages. I have the motor back on the bench. I pulled the cams to check them. The double verticle dots are straight up with the lobes on intake and exhaust cams. Does it really matter were the pins go as long as the double verticle dots are in line with the cam lobes? Also thanks a BUNCH for the updates!!! It's good to see you guys still support the dales.
Thanks, Mark
Yes they're pointing up at the lobes. I still removed them both and moved them to the locations called out on the revised manual pages. I knew the double dots needed to be pointed straight up with the lobes. I did buy the new intake cam from Brad @ black widow. The intake cam has only (2) holes in it. The gear still has multiple holes. This should not be a issue. I put the cams back in verified shimming. I verified TDC and locked it down with the correct bolt. Assembled the timming chain and lined up all the dots. I spun it over on the bench and still have no compression. I thinking bent valve or damaged guide. I'll also re-check the piston / sleeve. The sleeve has a deep dot but it's facing the intake side of the engine. Any other things I should look for?
Sticky bucket possibly not allowing the valve to close fast enough or all the way. If you have no compression, you either have a problem with your piston rings or valves. Do you have ring gaps staggered???
Are you using a good battery to check compression on the bench? That or a set of jumper cables to your car/truck are the only viable ways to do it.
Here is another easy check. Place the engine at TDC with the TDC bolt it. Pour Isopropyl Alcohol into the exhaust ports and intake ports, filling them about 3/4 of the way up. Screw in the compression tester hose with quick disconnect to the spark plug hole, then connect a compressor to the hose. Make sure the schrader valve is removed from the hose. Add compressed air to the combustion chamber.
A bent valve will have air bubbling out through the alcohol in one of the ports. Rings will have air burbling out the scavenge pump hole near the oil drain plug.
Are you using a good battery to check compression on the bench? That or a set of jumper cables to your car/truck are the only viable ways to do it.
Here is another easy check. Place the engine at TDC with the TDC bolt it. Pour Isopropyl Alcohol into the exhaust ports and intake ports, filling them about 3/4 of the way up. Screw in the compression tester hose with quick disconnect to the spark plug hole, then connect a compressor to the hose. Make sure the schrader valve is removed from the hose. Add compressed air to the combustion chamber.
A bent valve will have air bubbling out through the alcohol in one of the ports. Rings will have air burbling out the scavenge pump hole near the oil drain plug.
I used a fully charged car battery with cables. The ring caps are staggard. The buckets seem to move up and down quickly. I did have a sticky bucket right intake. This makes sense because thats were the broken decomp weight was wedged. I'll make sure it moves freely and do the alcohol test. I'll post my findings this eveing.