Cannondaleriders

Yep, we have a sleeve handy for it, but thanks for the offer. The one that is cracked is obvious drilled too deep and crack extends about 1-inch down.

The big-end side clearance is 0.016" hmmmmn but when I stop the side-movement with a feeler guage in there, and then do the "push-pull" again, I can't seem to detect hardly ANY movement -- bearing cage still feels intact, not breaking up or grinding yet....

At 12 O'lock high, I can rock the small end of rod side-to-side about 1/16"max..... I'm sure you guys have seen much worse.

Well if it were my quad it wouldnt start again till it had the full array of upgrades. I know what its like to be far from home and have a crank let go. That will never happen again if I can do something about it.

I wouldn't say time bomb too loud! If i had antifreeze in the oil i would fix it right the first time before something a little more serious happens.Then you you might be looking for more than a few bearings and seals.
Good luck on your ride.

Well said guys, thanks... Nick will read this again soon. And we have to get him to do the FULL job before hitting the BIG sand at St. Anthony in June!!

Well i here were you are coming from Wistech, about fixing it right now the right way, but i am riding either way for the week and a half over christmas and new years, and i would rather be on the Cannondale than a new YFZ.

Here he is running again, but with a convoluted hose arrangement just for testing (Nick had forgot to bring over the radiator)

We decided to check the flow of the new aluminum impeller -- it made a constant hose stream at rather slow 1800 rpm idle, and really put out harder when revved -- when hose slipped off it was all emptied in about 3 seconds! This cooling system is really well designed, and hard to believe any better on other machines.

Hay david pictures turned out good. Thanks again for the help yesterday, It really helped.
Nick