I hate to bring this up but ......

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NRath · #31 Post by **NRath** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:21 pm

QUOTE (rayspeed @ Dec 12 2008, 12:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can I claim a victory!

Did anyone notice that this guy won this machine and probably wont even ride it.
I have to wonder what he thinks the actual value of what he has is...10k possibly?

Whadda think guys another ditch? Worth more running or parted?

Well, you seem to be pretty well on point so far. But what I really want to know is what will the price of gasoline be and the unemployment rate this time next year? Hope you've got a GOOD crystal ball in the corner for that one! (another ditch maybe??!!)

I was certainly thinking about his status with the machine, too. I'd say he's best off keeping it. Running or parted, I'd have to go with parted unfortunately. And that's not because I think he'll get any great amount of money for it. Running, I'd be surprised if he could find a buyer at 2500 or maybe even 2k. $1500 and I think someone might snap it up, but it wouldn't go quick. If he parted it, he'd get those kind of prices for it, I think but would have some $$ start rolling in immediately. But then he's got to deal with shipping. I'd be up for the gas tank for a decent price

I don't think this is strictly a Cannondale thing, but being so unique definitely makes it worse. I don't watch too many other forums, but I'd bet there aren't very many 5k+ quads selling from any manufacturer.

The economy has definitely got alot of folks keeping that money in the pocket- myself included.

NRath · #32 Post by **NRath** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:34 pm

Oh, and the clutch mod thing... I ain't buying it. Or haven't experienced a need for it, yet. I've had 2 'dales and ridden three others belonging to various owners. All of these machines have run Redline Shockproof and all of them were no problem getting into neutral- even sitting still with the motor running. Obviously, that makes me a believer in Redline. Those are my first hand observations and all I have to go from. Then I've read here countless times about people that aren't running Redline and aren't getting neutral either. It would be interesting to see some long term results on the timing chain.

Heck, I've had more trouble getting neutral and with the clutch on my DRZ-400 than I have on the 'dales. I wonder if the clutch setscrews aren't set right on those 'Dales with a problem. On the DRZ- once there starts to be a little drag on the motor with the clutch in it's very difficult to hit neutral with the motor running. I have to tighten the cable a little. I do that and it's fine for a couple months. Then the clutch/motor drag comes back and no more neutral. Tighten the cable again and it's all good. I've had to adjust it 3 times in a year.

Side note I just remembered- when my first dale was new, yes it was tough to get neutral. At the first oil change I switched to Redline. Between that and wear in, the issue was decreased and never was a problem.

cannondale27 · #33 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:58 pm

I agree Nrath.That Redline must make it easier since its so thick it slows the freewheeling gears down much quicker making it easier to shift to neutral.The mod does work but then might make neutral to easy to hit.Reason the newer trannys are harder to find neutral is because tolerances were changed.Remember all the FX's and early Cannibals the tranny had a classic whine to it?Louder than stock exhaust.Those trannys are the best shifting and were made to looser tolerances you can easilly just bang gears under full power.As a matter of fact many you can just hold shifter up and it will bang each gear all by itself when rev limiter is hit.Yes just like a cut tranny!I guess people complained about the whine so they tightened them up.

NRath · #34 Post by **NRath** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:09 pm

I disagree about it being thick, though. Have you run some lightweight through your fingers? It doesn't seem any thicker than 10w40 to me. The fact that half of it stays stuck to whatever it's touching may lead you to believe it's really thick and slow moving, though! I can't wait to hear whats up with Desertbound's motor since he was running Redline in the tranny.

cannondale27 · #35 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:37 pm

That Smurf blood killed it

miller502 · #36 Post by **miller502** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:19 am

Got the quad fixed. The idle was set too low and after the quad heated up it would not idle right. I then sold the quad today for 3800.00 dollars.

thedeatons · #37 Post by **thedeatons** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:41 am

Can you sell mine for $3800? My idle screw is even right on...

As a tip to everyone, best to drop some low strength Loctite on the idle screw, just so it has trouble moving. I don't know how many times someone has come by with a non running Dale, only to find the idle screw had vibrated halfway out....

MX Quad Dad · #38 Post by **MX Quad Dad** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:26 pm

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Dec 12 2008, 12:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I agree Nrath.That Redline must make it easier since its so thick it slows the freewheeling gears down much quicker making it easier to shift to neutral.

that sounds logical too, but they are constant mesh trannies and with the clutch in and the quad in gear and not rolling, ther should not be any gears freewheeling. I would also think the sticky/clingy stuff would tend to try and drag the inner clutch hub a little more? which sounds logical to me but, I know it aint so

NRath · #39 Post by **NRath** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:14 pm

QUOTE (miller502 @ Dec 14 2008, 11:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Got the quad fixed. The idle was set too low and after the quad heated up it would not idle right. I then sold the quad today for 3800.00 dollars.

That's good news- glad to hear it was an easy fix. You did good on the sale the new owner got a sweet machine. Maybe I'm just a little more paranoid than most. I think it runs in the family

.

HouserCannondale · Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:05 pm

Do not use 10w-30 oil unless you are riding in cold weather. 40 degrees or colder all the time. Summer time use 10w-40, or heavier if you are in extremely hot climate.. 90 degrees or more. You should be using either a semi-synthetic, or full synthetic oil all of the time. I have used Motul and Redline. They both seem to be extremely good oils, but I really like the Motul 5100 ester the best, especially for the price. You can get the Motul 5100 Ester in 10w-40 and 10w-50 weights which both seems to work great. I have used that in my quad from day one, and after a year of hard racing the motor was perfect inside. Also if you are draining all of the oil, then refill with 1.5 quarts and you should be fine. The best way to check the oil is start the bike and look in the dipstick hole. It should be flowing over the metal plate down inside of the spar. If you cant see the plate you are over full, or your oil is too dirty. If it is below that plate, then you are low on oil. If you are sure that your engine does not have any external oil leaks, then the best way to check your oil is to simply take a look at your transmission sight glass, providing it was filled properly also. The only 2 places engine oil can go are into the transmission, or burnt.

As far as transmission oil goes, RedLine is now making a variant of their ShockProof oils that is designed specifically for motorcycle and atv transmissions.

Here is the link for the gear oil. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6