#$%^&#@*&^%$!
I was afraid of that. Bummer.
Tranny losing fluids
I haven't touched the motor since purchased. I think I bought it almost 2 yrs ago from AzCannon. It ran great, even when it was puking oil. It's a 468 stroker with a Falicon rod. Aside from this, last year around T-day I had the stator back out and give me some charging issues. Chewed up the stator a little but no significant damage. Although, that could have been a sign to double check everything else.
I may run the pressure test again, but honestly I'm going to tear the entire motor apart so I could just wait until I start rebuilding. I may mess with it tonight some more.
I have another engine (Issues unknown) that I can use, along with piles of other parts (thanks to the smokin' deal from AzCannon). I could very well have it up and running soon pending my work schedule....and of course accounting for the lazy factor.
I may run the pressure test again, but honestly I'm going to tear the entire motor apart so I could just wait until I start rebuilding. I may mess with it tonight some more.
I have another engine (Issues unknown) that I can use, along with piles of other parts (thanks to the smokin' deal from AzCannon). I could very well have it up and running soon pending my work schedule....and of course accounting for the lazy factor.
I tried the pressure testing again and still didn't find anything. As mentioned before however, since I'm going to tear it down completely, it's a bit of a moot point now.
Here are some more pics as I'm making some progress. For the pics showing timing, I'm assuming I'm at TDC based on the engine manual. Is there a fool proof way to know for sure regardless of the timing tick marks on the cam gears?
I labeled one of the pics of the cams with the clearances (seems waaay off to me...please comment as usual). Maybe have some uneven wear on the intake cam, the exhausts are at least close to the same on both.
Anyways, here's the pics.
Here are some more pics as I'm making some progress. For the pics showing timing, I'm assuming I'm at TDC based on the engine manual. Is there a fool proof way to know for sure regardless of the timing tick marks on the cam gears?
I labeled one of the pics of the cams with the clearances (seems waaay off to me...please comment as usual). Maybe have some uneven wear on the intake cam, the exhausts are at least close to the same on both.
Anyways, here's the pics.
I'm not sure why the spec on that one cam lobe would be so large? Valve tighten up not loosen up. I'm going to stress doing the test again. If the case is cracked by that bolt hole odds are your going to get motor oil into the tranny and not tranny oil into the motor. One of the few ways to get tranny oil into the motor is from the scavenger pump sucking it out of the tranny, or a crack way down low on the case and it leaking over wile parked.
I think you should really find the problem before you tear it apart? It's going to suck to put it back together and still have this same problem. Because in the end no matter what your going to find the problem, mine as well find it now and not later.
I know online makes it hard and I mean no offense but I'd like to see some pics of your test set up? Because the test is pretty successful and 99% should turn up the problem.
I think you should really find the problem before you tear it apart? It's going to suck to put it back together and still have this same problem. Because in the end no matter what your going to find the problem, mine as well find it now and not later.
I know online makes it hard and I mean no offense but I'd like to see some pics of your test set up? Because the test is pretty successful and 99% should turn up the problem.
QUOTE (claas900 @ Sep 12 2009, 08:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm not sure why the spec on that one cam lobe would be so large? Valve tighten up not loosen up. I'm going to stress doing the test again. If the case is cracked by that bolt hole odds are your going to get motor oil into the tranny and not tranny oil into the motor. One of the few ways to get tranny oil into the motor is from the scavenger pump sucking it out of the tranny, or a crack way down low on the case and it leaking over wile parked.
I think you should really find the problem before you tear it apart? It's going to suck to put it back together and still have this same problem. Because in the end no matter what your going to find the problem, mine as well find it now and not later.
I know online makes it hard and I mean no offense but I'd like to see some pics of your test set up? Because the test is pretty successful and 99% should turn up the problem.
I think you should really find the problem before you tear it apart? It's going to suck to put it back together and still have this same problem. Because in the end no matter what your going to find the problem, mine as well find it now and not later.
I know online makes it hard and I mean no offense but I'd like to see some pics of your test set up? Because the test is pretty successful and 99% should turn up the problem.
Do you have a specific location to try? I may be doing something wrong on the pressure test as far as where I'm applying air. No offense taken at all...you're trying to help me..lol.
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Canniboomer
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With the flywheel "C" pointing toward the spark plug, or the keyway pointing to the same 12 o-clock high, you are at TDC.
You have found a major leak already -- that crack would certainly bubble if enough of it was smothered with filmy suds. But with the
crack so long and dispersed, that test air could have escaped quickly and without necessarily showing small bubbles.
As the motor vibrates, gear oil would be sheeting down and wicking through that crack and into the sump area. Both the sump and the tranny sections are eventually vented to the atmosphere. But since the sump scavenge pump has much more capacity than the tranny pump, the sump would draw the oil in that direction. You can certainly pull the crankplate off now, and without even removing the head or crank yet. In addition to the fatal case crack, the crankplate could be loose and leaking in other places as well.
Anthony,...you says it's a Falicon?...that means your piston would be a standard 450 and swappable to another case with a normal crank.
The piston would not be stroker-prepped or shaved per the normal Timbo stroker.
After a few years on an early Falicon?...consider yourself very lucky already, as that crank is probably ready for the boneyard now.
Those "cannondaled" Falicons are becoming well known for shaking flywheels, stators, crankplates, and cases....apart.
You have found a major leak already -- that crack would certainly bubble if enough of it was smothered with filmy suds. But with the
crack so long and dispersed, that test air could have escaped quickly and without necessarily showing small bubbles.
As the motor vibrates, gear oil would be sheeting down and wicking through that crack and into the sump area. Both the sump and the tranny sections are eventually vented to the atmosphere. But since the sump scavenge pump has much more capacity than the tranny pump, the sump would draw the oil in that direction. You can certainly pull the crankplate off now, and without even removing the head or crank yet. In addition to the fatal case crack, the crankplate could be loose and leaking in other places as well.
Anthony,...you says it's a Falicon?...that means your piston would be a standard 450 and swappable to another case with a normal crank.
The piston would not be stroker-prepped or shaved per the normal Timbo stroker.
After a few years on an early Falicon?...consider yourself very lucky already, as that crank is probably ready for the boneyard now.
Those "cannondaled" Falicons are becoming well known for shaking flywheels, stators, crankplates, and cases....apart.
QUOTE (Crazie @ Sep 12 2009, 10:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Do you have a specific location to try? I may be doing something wrong on the pressure test as far as where I'm applying air. No offense taken at all...you're trying to help me..lol.
I like to supply air on the oil feed supply. I get the oil return hose and plug it into the valve cover vent. Cap off the vent on the starter clutch and use the starter as a plug for its own hole.
I'd be looking really hard around the scavenger pump, around the oil feed tube and also around the 2 oil tubes the go into the head. Tho the tranny and motor both vent out into the atmosphere, the tranny has almost no pressure on it unless the vent is plunged. The motor has a lot more. Next time you go to start the bike or have one running get the dip stick and just set it on the fill hole. You'll see it bouncing up and down, theirs a lot more pressure on the motor side.