Oil filter conversion

Message

Sandstorm · #31 Post by **Sandstorm** » Mon May 31, 2004 8:34 pm

Wade sent my SS filter back in a paper bag and said DON'T USE THESE.. I had it in my stock motor for over 100hrs. Wisetech lost the crank in that motor w/ about 200-250hrs on it. Alot of those hrs were on a paper filter. Wade says you can go two oil changes on the paper filters.. I will also be useing 0-30 or 5-30 oil from now on in the engine..

Jaybr · #32 Post by **Jaybr** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 12:13 am

I talked to Lewis last week, aftermarket filters should be in soon and very reasonably priced

SlOoT · #33 Post by **SlOoT** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 7:20 pm

Ok guys, YZ426F oil filter does NOT fit, it's size is not even close to that of the Dale. Strange, Eurogod told me a YZ426F filter fits. :confused: :confused: :confused:

MI_CDALE_Rider · #34 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 2:06 am

OK I am a bit confused on the SS vs. paper oil filter debate.

I have a SS that was given to me by the "drug dealer" that introduced me to ATV's and my new 2003 cannible (read my riding friend). How do I determine if its aftermarket and has a proper relief valve or should I just make the jump to a quality paper filter to avoid possible future headaches?

Paper oil filter part #'s?

What about the SS trans filter?

:confused:

cannondale27 · #35 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 7:11 am

None of the filters have a relief valve.Your best bet is to change oil and clean your stainless filter ALOT.Like every three tanks of gas or right after a weekend of riding.The theory is that the stainless can plug up totally.Well any motor that has that much crud in it the owner should be removed not the filter:hammer: In the case of metal plugging filter damage would have been done to motor nothing filter could do to prevent further damage.Changing oil alot is the key.When you change oil it should still look like new not black and burned.If it still looks new you have got the intervals right.

MI_CDALE_Rider · #36 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 1:45 pm

QUOTE

Originally posted by cannondale27
None of the filters have a relief valve.Your best bet is to change oil and clean your stainless filter ALOT.Like every three tanks of gas or right after a weekend of riding.The theory is that the stainless can plug up totally.Well any motor that has that much crud in it the owner should be removed not the filter:hammer: In the case of metal plugging filter damage would have been done to motor nothing filter could do to prevent further damage.Changing oil alot is the key.When you change oil it should still look like new not black and burned.If it still looks new you have got the intervals right.

Thanks again cannondale27 for the help... I agree with the oil changing alot as I have done that with my dirt bikes in the past.

What is the recommended oil brand/type/weight to use in a c dale cannible? I changed my oil after 5 hours of riding with Maxima (spelling) sythn. 10W30 but have heard that Klotz is a better brand? Any thoughts?

Thanks again!
KJ

cannondale27 · #37 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:31 pm

Any of the good synthetic oils work well.I use Amsoil.Redline is used by quite a few Mobil Redcap and I am sure Maxima are all great.

MI_CDALE_Rider · #38 Post by **MI_CDALE_Rider** » Sun Jun 20, 2004 2:42 am

QUOTE

Originally posted by cannondale27
Any of the good synthetic oils work well.I use Amsoil.Redline is used by quite a few Mobil Redcap and I am sure Maxima are all great.

Thanks again for the insight!