New Motor Problems

Message

cannondale27 · #31 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:05 am

Here is a link to my Rebuild testing thread.Nice pics and you will also notice that at one time I was one of Winkys biggest fans.I knew nothing about cranks never pulled one apart that was my first.Normally trusted others to do that type of work.When I first pulled it I assumed that it was a cageless bearing.It wasnt the cage had just disintegrated.I think some pics of his second generation cranks are elsewhere along with findings.

http://www.cannondaleriders.com/vbb/showth...ld&pagenumber=3

Here is write up on the new style with pics and specs.I am still waiting for the replacement for the replacement which was promised.

http://www.cannondaleriders.com/vbb/showth...highlight=Winky

Happyboy · #32 Post by **Happyboy** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:07 am

Calm down 27! Its ok man, breathe in...breathe out....

KRMit · #33 Post by **KRMit** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:08 am

I'm no motor builder and I've got a buddy helping me with this. I really hate asking him to help with more than really has to be done. He's got the head off (intake valves are bent). How much more trouble is it to get to where ya'll are talking about?

Happyboy · #34 Post by **Happyboy** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:11 am

Take the sleeve off. Then remove the piston. Gotta take the crank cartiridge plate out. then take the crank off of it. Then get the crank pressed apart and rebuilt.

Happyboy · #35 Post by **Happyboy** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:12 am

Oh...And do this. No matter what, you are this far, you will have a failure if you do not fix that crank.

cannondale27 · #36 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:13 am

All we can do is warn you.It is very easy to pull the crank you are way more than 3/4 there already.Bring it to a shop along with info we gave you and get their opinion.Highlight the resurfaced pin if first batch and actual crank measurements.

WJR · #37 Post by **WJR** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:07 am

FWIW, I just put the first tanks worth of hard hours on my Winkey crank--the three piece design, and there wasn't so much as a scrap of metal, brass or otherwise, on the filter. It looked good and seemed tight to me when I put it in, but I don;t know a whole lot about cranks.

I used SKF ball bearings for the mains.

I'll post more as I get more time to ride, whenever that will be:( .

Whats up with the thrust washers? Mine has them. Do they disintegrate or what?

WJR

cannondale27 · #38 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:06 pm

They did in the first batch on alot of the blown cranks.Havent heard many long term reports on the new 3 piece cranks from Winky.Bearing and pin should hold up as well as a Yamaha since it is.As long as it was put together and synced right and the thrust washers dont contaminate bearing from wear.

jwheat · #39 Post by **jwheat** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:11 am

I'm redoing the motor in this discussion. I've never been into a Cannondale engine before but it seems pretty straight forward.
I pulled the crank out today and it has roller bearings installed(not ball bearings). Are these ok for this type of engine? The crank has Diamond Racing 14,000 RPM max stamped on it. I am taking it Monday to a machinist that I trust to have him check it. He is the best I've seen in my area with quad and bike cranks. He will also be installing new valves in the head for me. Is there anything that I need to look for in this motor as I inspect it? The bolts holding the transmission cartridge in are wire tied together. Is this a factory set-up or has this been done by someone else? Wouldn't red Locktite be sufficient to hold these bolts in place? I'm not new to motors, fuel injection, or computers, but I am new to Cannondales and just want to get some experienced advice.

acarli3 · #40 Post by **acarli3** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:15 am

Red loctite is not enough to hold the cartridge plate bolts in as many have had them back out. The cranks have produced a lot of vibration in these engines. Wiring them was a modification that was done to the engine.