Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 8:47 pm
His clutch is still a full 9-friction stack, with just the #1 plate changed to the HD plate. With any amount of wear on a clutch, you can easily SUB up to two thick frictions for the thin frictions, and still run a 9/10 stack.
As we all eventually run out of the thin friction plates, we will all be running the 8/9 HD stack.
You could also check the 6 spring-posts of your clutch basket for excess aluminum shavings caused by the clutch springs. The pressure plate pockets could also be reaming out some slivers. I have some spring-base shims that will buffer against that wear. Also, did you happen to change clutch springs? during your rebuild?
If you had changed them out, you might consider changing back, and keeping the springs torqued rather low -- the manual calls for 39 inch-pounds only, but we cheat that up to 48 inch-pounds max. But some motors?,........ I swear the springs can really be torqued too tight like 10 pounds! -- it's easy to do, and can aggravate that wear inside the clutch hub
As we all eventually run out of the thin friction plates, we will all be running the 8/9 HD stack.
You could also check the 6 spring-posts of your clutch basket for excess aluminum shavings caused by the clutch springs. The pressure plate pockets could also be reaming out some slivers. I have some spring-base shims that will buffer against that wear. Also, did you happen to change clutch springs? during your rebuild?
If you had changed them out, you might consider changing back, and keeping the springs torqued rather low -- the manual calls for 39 inch-pounds only, but we cheat that up to 48 inch-pounds max. But some motors?,........ I swear the springs can really be torqued too tight like 10 pounds! -- it's easy to do, and can aggravate that wear inside the clutch hub