When you checked it here you said there was no leaking, which to me would include leaking past the rings.
Did you do an actual compression check now that the valves are seating? If you did, did you hold the throttle wide open while cranking it?
It's on the bench with no Throttle Body on it. I pulled the piston and sleeve and I????????m in spec in regards to ring end gap. The sleeve is clean with no scratches or cracks. I really should bend over and let someone kick me in the #ss! Today after I went through and re-checked everything my friend recommends disabling the Exhaust decompression lever. We do another Compression test.....180. The decomp weight is not kicking open. The weight moves freely. It seems it's not heavy enough. I and using a fully charged car battery to crank it. I did replace the decomp weight with one from Black Window because the stock one broke in pieces jamming and breaking the intake cam which started this whole rebuild. How many times should the cam rotate before the lever stops releasing compression? Any ideas?
Thanks, Mark
I've also noticed some old topics regarding the decomp weights....removing the springs, removing the counter weight etc. I know starting it without the decomp assy would jack up the starter clutch.
The decomp will stop engaging somewhere around 600 rpm I believe.
Did you check the cylinder for roundness? I found one today that looks fine, but when you install the compression ring in the middle of the cylinder you can see daylight between the ring and cylinder wall, right where the vertical scoring is on the cylinder.... Just a thought.
180 isnt much with a disabled decomp.Do a compression test with it working.Dont see here what you got.A sticking bucket makes no sense since you adjusted the valve clearance right?Pretty much if your valves arent holding air it means one is either bent or burned.If you ran a hone in your bucket bores you just ruined your head since the bores will no longer hold oil for any meaningful amount of time.Decomp disengages right when motor starts.Not while cranking it.
I thought somewhere Wayne said the decomp was engaged up to 300rpm. So if the starter cranks at 600rpm,then the cam is half that speed at 300rpm.
I stopped cranking it when it reached 180. I'm sure it will go more. I only touched up the right intake bore using a wheel cylinder hone. I did not have to touch the others. Could you please explain why the head could be ruined regarding holding oil? The decomp weight I got from Brad (Black Widow) looks like cast steel. I did see some others in the past which were billet stainless. Any recommendations?
If they dont hold oil everytime you start the motor it will be dry on the cams till oil gets back up there.
Oh I see. Well I gently honed it so it should be fine. The motor is still on the bench. I guess I could oil the tops of the buckets and see that one goes dry. I still need to resolve my decomp weight issue. It moves freely but when i'm cranking it I only gets about 30 lbs compression. I don't believe it's enough to start it. The decomp pin that strikes the cam bucket is much larger than others models i've seen (honda, etc.) Has anyone tried using a smaller pin? Just an idea. Thanks for your quick reply!!!