took apart my blown engine

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tomi440 · #51 Post by **tomi440** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:54 pm

Do you ever plan on timing your cams, or simply running them at stock dots?
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Well like you aleady know I'm very new with Cannondales. I was planning to run the stock timing, is there a better set up? Almost like the YFZ450 cam-mod sort of thing? What are the benefits and which cams timing would I advance/retard?

Happyboy · #52 Post by **Happyboy** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:38 pm

So the stock cams have been a crap shoot to how they were timed from the factory. Most of them are pretty close but there have been some that were just way out. If you want to get the most out of your work then take the time to time them when assembling. It can take a few more hours but it could be well worth it.

thedeatons · #53 Post by **thedeatons** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:42 am

Happyboy is right....

My question was because the easiest cams/cam gears to time with are the ones with the most holes. 12 holes are the maximum found. 2 holes the minimum. 12 holes=easier (more adjustibility). Stock timing is 106I/106E. As Happy mentioned the stock timing is usually way off. Lots of extra power can be found with cam timing. We are starting to see that simply by going wild with timing 113I/111E or 111I/109E we are getting another ~2hp at peak. Just something to think about.

tomi440 · #54 Post by **tomi440** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:55 pm

QUOTE (thedeatons @ Aug 28 2008, 01:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Happyboy is right....

My question was because the easiest cams/cam gears to time with are the ones with the most holes. 12 holes are the maximum found. 2 holes the minimum. 12 holes=easier (more adjustibility). Stock timing is 106I/106E. As Happy mentioned the stock timing is usually way off. Lots of extra power can be found with cam timing. We are starting to see that simply by going wild with timing 113I/111E or 111I/109E we are getting another ~2hp at peak. Just something to think about.

Alright thanks. When assembling I will definitly look at the timing between the cams/valves at TDC when with the stock, dotted timing. If it looks like it can be improved, then I will play with the timing to get it as perfect as possible.

tomi440 · #55 Post by **tomi440** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 3:29 am

Today I noticed the little shims between my buckets and valves were all different sizes. One is 2.85, another 2.8, another 2.5 and the last 2.3 mm. Whats the reason for this?

Sorry about all my dumb Noob questions. If it wasnt for you guys I don't know what I would do, seriously:).

Thanks

kdeal · #56 Post by **kdeal** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:48 am

QUOTE (tomi440 @ Aug 28 2008, 11:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Today I noticed the little shims between my buckets and valves were all different sizes. One is 2.85, another 2.8, another 2.5 and the last 2.3 mm. Whats the reason for this?

Sorry about all my dumb Noob questions. If it wasnt for you guys I don't know what I would do, seriously:).

Thanks

That's due to variances in the valves and seats. You need to shim each valve to get an exact clearance. So if the spec calls for .007" and one valve is just a hair longer or the seat is set deeper in the head you would use different sizes to get the exact clearance you are looking for. Don't worry about it, but you may need to buy new ones to whatever the clearance should be.

PS: They are the same as a Suzuki Z400, so you should be able to buy the individual ones you need from a Suzuki dealer.

thedeatons · #57 Post by **thedeatons** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:59 pm

If you plan on working on Dales a lot, it pays off real quickly to buy the two sets of shims that Hot Cams sells. ~$70 for both, but at the dealer each shim is $3-4.

tomi440 · #58 Post by **tomi440** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:27 pm

QUOTE (kdeal @ Aug 29 2008, 10:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's due to variances in the valves and seats. You need to shim each valve to get an exact clearance. So if the spec calls for .007" and one valve is just a hair longer or the seat is set deeper in the head you would use different sizes to get the exact clearance you are looking for. Don't worry about it, but you may need to buy new ones to whatever the clearance should be.

PS: They are the same as a Suzuki Z400, so you should be able to buy the individual ones you need from a Suzuki dealer.

So when I am assembling my valve train, how would I go about measuring the valve clearance?

thedeatons · #59 Post by **thedeatons** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:46 pm

The Cannondale Engine Service Manual can be referenced for questions like these. Have you downloaded it from cannondaler.com yet? Go to the homepage, then the manuals section. Download the .pdf and read it thoroughly.

tomi440 · #60 Post by **tomi440** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:56 pm

QUOTE (thedeatons @ Aug 29 2008, 02:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The Cannondale Engine Service Manual can be referenced for questions like these. Have you downloaded it from cannondaler.com yet? Go to the homepage, then the manuals section. Download the .pdf and read it thoroughly.

Ok thanks, yes I have downloaded it. Maby I should look in to things a little more before I ask questions. Sorry about that.