clutch problems

Message

jacobw · #1 Post by **jacobw** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:55 am

after we got the motor running and took it for a test ride the clutches seem to be grabbing a little bit do u tighten the springs till they hit bottom for we went by the manual and tightened it to the correct tightness or do u think the clutch needs to be bled a little bit and see if that helps

jacobw · #2 Post by **jacobw** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:51 pm

1. How do you bleed the clutch after we put it back together its kinda spongy, we did not take the slave cylinder off the end of the hose so I dont know why its spongy??

2. Brandon, my brother tightened the clutch basket springs all the way down till they hit the bottom I dont think they are suppose to be that tight how tight to they have to be. I am sure there is a certian tension that they have to be without being overtight.

haydug · #3 Post by **haydug** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:56 pm

To bleed the clutch: use a syringe, with magura "blood" and push it up from the bottom. You take the cap off of the master cylinder, and loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, then just shove in the fluid. It will make a mess though. Also, your springs to tighten down yes, if you leave them loose, they will fall out and you won't like that.

jacobw · #4 Post by **jacobw** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 1:02 pm

So the clutch being spongy is prob not letting it disengage all the way. Thank ya sir :head: :head:

KRMit · #5 Post by **KRMit** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:49 pm

My clutch is kinda "grabby" when I first ease off the clutch to take off. Any ideas?

jwheat · #6 Post by **jwheat** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:52 pm

Haydug...I'm curious about your method of bleeding the clutch. Wouldn't using a syringe to force fluid in the bleeder screw risk the chance of more air getting in past the syringe tip. This may work fine, I've just never seen anyone do it this was.

I normally open the bleeder screw and slowly squeeze the clutch handle down and hold it until I tighten the bleeder screw back up...repeat several times...then crack open the line where it attaches to the master cylinder and repeat the process to allow any air at the top of the system to escape.

I'm all for new and improved ways to do so stuff...I just don't have a syringe in any of my tool boxes.

Another question.....why would DOT3 or DOT5 brake fluid not work in the hydraulic clutch systems? Are the seals in the system not up to resisting the brake fluid?

Happyboy · #7 Post by **Happyboy** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 4:34 pm

Thats just the way the manual said to bleed the clutch. And it works great. Just keep pushing fluid until no more bubble come out the rezzy and it starts to fill up. Works perfect every time. And an alternative to magura blood is mineral oil. It works great as long as you don't have super cold temps.

jacobw · #8 Post by **jacobw** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:16 am

the owner of our local suzuki shop said that when he had ktm's with hydraulic clutches he ran regular 10w40 motor can you do that they were magura clutches

jacobw · #9 Post by **jacobw** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 12:09 pm

what about in the clutch system he said a 10w40 would work if it wasnt synthetic oil

cannondale27 · #10 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 12:28 pm

In the master cylinder?No dont do that!Get the Magura Blood it works the best.