red LED temp status light illuminated...STEADY!????
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
The Red may blip during initial power up, and during shutdowns or stalls, but should not remain ON. If it stays ON, it's not working for you. Normal is OFF, or a slow-blink at hot temp, or a fast-blink at critical high temp.
The blinking Yellow/Amber is the fault detector, for the variety of faults you can also read with the D&M kit. Oil-related faults are not part of our system. Normal state is OFF, but that yellow LED would also blink ON during power ups and shutdowns.
Yep the Green should remain constant ON to indicate ECU power, slow-blink for low voltage, or fast-blink for Very low voltage.
If the Red stays ON, it could be from a short in the LED leads, the Status lights wiring, the Harness, or a problem within the ECU. I don't know yet what a bad temp sensor might indicate, but an unplugged sensor will not turn the Red to ON. Check the wiring at all pinch points and sharp bends, or under tight zipties, etc. just to be sure a wire is not leaking to ground, or to another one. Swapping the ECU, or pulling another machine alongside may be handy.
For lights that are TOO bright, you might try a drop of nail polish (not KDeal pink!), or thin sealant, epoxy, etc.
The blinking Yellow/Amber is the fault detector, for the variety of faults you can also read with the D&M kit. Oil-related faults are not part of our system. Normal state is OFF, but that yellow LED would also blink ON during power ups and shutdowns.
Yep the Green should remain constant ON to indicate ECU power, slow-blink for low voltage, or fast-blink for Very low voltage.
If the Red stays ON, it could be from a short in the LED leads, the Status lights wiring, the Harness, or a problem within the ECU. I don't know yet what a bad temp sensor might indicate, but an unplugged sensor will not turn the Red to ON. Check the wiring at all pinch points and sharp bends, or under tight zipties, etc. just to be sure a wire is not leaking to ground, or to another one. Swapping the ECU, or pulling another machine alongside may be handy.
For lights that are TOO bright, you might try a drop of nail polish (not KDeal pink!), or thin sealant, epoxy, etc.
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ozarkdaler
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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flyarmyguns
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (cjenkins @ Jan 27 2007, 08:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks Dave.
I have checked all of the bends and crimps in the wiring and it seemed fine. I will check them again because it has been a while.
Yeah you said the lights shine real well when I bought them but I did not realize I could spotlight with them lol.....
I have checked all of the bends and crimps in the wiring and it seemed fine. I will check them again because it has been a while.
Yeah you said the lights shine real well when I bought them but I did not realize I could spotlight with them lol.....
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Update.. All is fixed!
I took a Cannondaler up on his offer to lend a hand. Thanks again!
Anyway all it took, (as our resident experts suggested) was a HEX re-load. We reloaded the C map and re-calibrated the TPS.
I now have an illuminated solid green LED when the ECU/engine are on. Both the red temp and yellow fault LED light for a moment at start-up and then go out.
So???????It all works???????..
Tach, temp, Speedo, status lights, etc??????????????..
http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u188/fl...rrent=fixed.jpg
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cannondale27
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flyarmyguns
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm