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Replace clutch??

Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:17 pm
by cdalerider75
The last plate has a bent tab... replace the clutch plate? how does this happen?

Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:55 pm
by Happyboy
Lots of times that happens when drag raced. This differs from when you and Derno race in Drag. sad.gif

You can just swap the last plate out with the first if the last plate isn't too damaged...which the pic looks ok.

Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:18 pm
by claas900
..the basket does it, its "rounded" there thats why it does it..To help stop it put an extra steal plate in there to space it away from the basket.

Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:10 am
by cannondale27
Also that is the older 9 disc design which is thinner.I like the 9 disc but you do have to keep an eye on it and rotate.I think that first one should be thrown out it is bent pretty far.Usually a edge is kicked up and that is when you rotate discs bending like it is I just wouldnt trust it anymore.

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 11:30 pm
by wistech
you dont need a whole clutch. Just rotate the friction to the front and/or get one more steel disc in the bottom of the pack. You dont need to pull the engine down to check it . Just remove the tranny fill cap and look at it with a flashlight.

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 1:03 am
by wanablaze
Are the specs you have for the old or new clutch plates? There are two types, as posted above. Ensure that you are comparing apples to apples.

Personally, I'd just rotate the plates and run them till they're gone!tongue.gif

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 2:31 am
by azcannon
QUOTE
Originally posted by wanablaze
Are the specs you have for the old or new clutch plates?  There are two types, as posted above.  Ensure that you are comparing apples to apples.  

Personally, I'd just rotate the plates and run them till they're gone!tongue.gif

Ditto

Re: Re: Replace clutch??

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:59 am
by saltus440
QUOTE
Originally posted by Stunz
Now I need a clutch...when does this end?

My last plate has the exact same bend. I also measured the friction plates and they are below specifications.

Friction plates = 2.5mm

The springs are good for a little bit longer.
Springs = 42mm

Who had clutch plates for sale?
I need 9.


If you got the spec for the friction plate thickness out of the c-dale manual it is for the new thicker plates. It is the wrong spec for the ones you have and yours still might be good. Call brad @ blackwidow he knows the right spec for the old frictions that you have. He also has the new clutch sets with the 8 frictions that is thicker. I believe he was selling sets with frictions, steels and springs for 110 but don't quote me on that.

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:55 am
by GMAK
every tab on my last clutch plate isnt bent pretty bad. i just rotated it to the front. do i need new clutch plates soon? i think they've been their since '02

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 11:36 am
by Brad Oakley
Okay - Here goes...

In the original set-up, Cannondale used 9 friction and 10 pressure disks. The friction disks were about 2.3mm thick. Because the thin plates caused the tabs to bend - as seen in the photo - Cannondale then went to a 2.8mm thick friction disk. The extra .5mm per plate is why the new set-up only has 8 frictions and 9 pressure plates.

However - with the switch, the clutch springs ended up not being strong enough to keep the new arrangement (8 and 9) from slipping, so they went with a heavier spring. If you switch to the thicker plates, you will need to replace your springs.

Now for the shameless plug...

I have the thicker friction discs for only $7.25 each ($58.00 for the set of 8,) the steel pressure discs for $2.50 ($22.50 for the set of 9) and the stronger springs; $51.26 for the set of six. $131.76 will replace everything.

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