Looks like they still sell them for us.Always nice to find companies that still service us.
http://www.scottsperformance.com/products....Bike=Cannondale
Scotts Oil Filters
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thedeatons
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QUOTE (thedeatons @ Dec 22 2007, 03:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think I have one laying around... Anyone need one?
If you have the Scotts brand (not the Cannondale stainless), I'm interested. Price?
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thedeatons
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I had come across the Scotts filter also just recently. So I started to do a little digging to see what the consensus was and if it was worth it to run one. This is what made me decide to keep running the paper filters from brad:
"So, unbeknownst to me I have been working with a guy who managed a test area at Purolator for over 10 years... Today he looked at one of Brad's filters that are sold for ~6 for $30. These filters have "Made in Korea" stamped on the side and the number ATD418. The filters were pronounced to be very well made, with epoxy around the base of the element where it meets the ends. The sealing points were also pronounced very nice. Brad gave me a rating from the factory of 1 micron nominal, which according to SAE standards means ~60-80% of the time. My guy from Purolator translated that 1 micron nominal rating to an absolute rating of 5, meaning that nothing more than 5 microns will get past the media, assuming the nominal rating Brad supplied is correct. The filter was also pronounced better than the Ford filters supplied by Racyo (I think that is how you spell it), where he has also done business in the past. The filter is not a pure paper media, but some type of synthetic with a dense amount of fibers embedded.
I think the big question now is whether our engines are bypassing the oil, and if so when and how much. Bypassing the filter would be bad, especially when we have such a good filter."
Originally posted by thedeatons here: http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...cotts&st=20
"So, unbeknownst to me I have been working with a guy who managed a test area at Purolator for over 10 years... Today he looked at one of Brad's filters that are sold for ~6 for $30. These filters have "Made in Korea" stamped on the side and the number ATD418. The filters were pronounced to be very well made, with epoxy around the base of the element where it meets the ends. The sealing points were also pronounced very nice. Brad gave me a rating from the factory of 1 micron nominal, which according to SAE standards means ~60-80% of the time. My guy from Purolator translated that 1 micron nominal rating to an absolute rating of 5, meaning that nothing more than 5 microns will get past the media, assuming the nominal rating Brad supplied is correct. The filter was also pronounced better than the Ford filters supplied by Racyo (I think that is how you spell it), where he has also done business in the past. The filter is not a pure paper media, but some type of synthetic with a dense amount of fibers embedded.
I think the big question now is whether our engines are bypassing the oil, and if so when and how much. Bypassing the filter would be bad, especially when we have such a good filter."
Originally posted by thedeatons here: http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...cotts&st=20
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thedeatons
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Yeah, that was a big hullabaloo for a while. That is the exact reason I am offering up the stainless filter for sale 
I would rather run a paper and have to buy new ones since the micron rating is better on them. If you look into micron and sub micron filtration you will find that is where most of the wear in engines come from. Companies have proven this on fleet engines over the years, and are now getting a million miles with little or no wear.... So, once again, stainless filter for sale LOL....
I would rather run a paper and have to buy new ones since the micron rating is better on them. If you look into micron and sub micron filtration you will find that is where most of the wear in engines come from. Companies have proven this on fleet engines over the years, and are now getting a million miles with little or no wear.... So, once again, stainless filter for sale LOL....The Scotts filters are very high quality and make the stock Cannondale units look like crap. As for the micron arguement, that can go on forever. The paper element guys will always state with facts how the paper units are better, whereas the stainless filter guys will back up the reasons why their filters are better (with documented facts as well).
I just tore down my X440s motor that I built 2.5 years ago. I run my motors very hard and even at teardown, this motor did not smoke a bit - even at start up. It was a stock 432 ASSO w/Z400 with well over 150 hours. After initial break in oil change, I switched to the stainless filter and have run it since.
I believe the key is to keep fresh oil in your motor. If you want to "extend" your oil changes then paper would be the way to go.
Oh, and why did I tear down my motor if it was smoke free and ran great? Time for a horsepower upgrade!
I just tore down my X440s motor that I built 2.5 years ago. I run my motors very hard and even at teardown, this motor did not smoke a bit - even at start up. It was a stock 432 ASSO w/Z400 with well over 150 hours. After initial break in oil change, I switched to the stainless filter and have run it since.
I believe the key is to keep fresh oil in your motor. If you want to "extend" your oil changes then paper would be the way to go.
Oh, and why did I tear down my motor if it was smoke free and ran great? Time for a horsepower upgrade!
The Scotts has many pleats and the cannondale has very few... kind of a trade off, more pleats means it can trap more volume before clogging up, but it is harder to clean it out and see if the motor is making excessive wear material. The cannondale one is easy to clean and very obvious what is in there when you pull it out. The paper filters better and has the most pleats so it can trap more volume and finer material but it is hard to tell what is in there unless you take a knife to it and cut it apart.
I would say if you change your oil often (ten hours or less) and use a 10w something oil the dale one is ok. If you like to stretch it a little bit use the Scotts. If you use the paper I think it is best to use a 5w something oil because you dont want the heavier oil to be bypassing the filter when it is cold and you dont want to run it too long because it can clog up and bypass sooner. Personally I dont let the oil go for more than 20 hours or any filter go for more than ten.
My approach is to switch back and forth between the paper and the cannondale screen factoring in all that is going on with the motor and expected riding .
For instance if I have six hours on an oil change and a weekend trip planned that will likely put me over ten hours and the oil still looks pretty good I will swap one filter for the other so I dont have to change oil on a trip. If after ten hours the oil still looks like it came out of the bottle I will swap filters and run it another five or ten at the most.
Ray
I would say if you change your oil often (ten hours or less) and use a 10w something oil the dale one is ok. If you like to stretch it a little bit use the Scotts. If you use the paper I think it is best to use a 5w something oil because you dont want the heavier oil to be bypassing the filter when it is cold and you dont want to run it too long because it can clog up and bypass sooner. Personally I dont let the oil go for more than 20 hours or any filter go for more than ten.
My approach is to switch back and forth between the paper and the cannondale screen factoring in all that is going on with the motor and expected riding .
For instance if I have six hours on an oil change and a weekend trip planned that will likely put me over ten hours and the oil still looks pretty good I will swap one filter for the other so I dont have to change oil on a trip. If after ten hours the oil still looks like it came out of the bottle I will swap filters and run it another five or ten at the most.
Ray