Crank bearing

Message

TG2891 · #1 Post by **TG2891** » Fri May 16, 2008 11:24 pm

Just started looking but how do you get the stator side crank bearing out? There does not seem to be a place to get a good grip to pull or press out, or am I missing something? Also, if I am in there should I replace the balancer shaft bearings too? They do not look or feel bad but what is everyones experiences?

thedeatons · #2 Post by **thedeatons** » Fri May 16, 2008 11:53 pm

Cord at Black Widow told me an easy way to get the old bearings out with no puller.... It works most of the time. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Put the engine case in the oven in such a way that the inside of the bearing is facing down towards the pan or cookie sheet you put it on. Give it about ten minutes and then pull the cookie sheet out using oven mitts. Place it somewhere that will not get you killed by your spouse or parents (!!). Use a screwdriver or punch to hit the bearing downward from the flywheel side of the case. Move around the perimeter of the bearing hitting evenly with a hammer and punch or socket.

Bearings install in a similar fashion, but put the bearings in the freezer for a couple hours, then heat the case, then pop the bearings in and use a large socket to evenly seat the bearing. Make sure it is seated with a dull "thud" all around the outside of the bearing.

cannondale27 · #3 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat May 17, 2008 12:01 am

There is a post somewhere with a pic of the tool Wistech came up with. What you do is using a small screwdriver pop out all the rollers and cage, then you get yourself a washer the same dia as race left in case. Grind the two parallel edges of the washer till it just slides into the race. Once its in a tap in center of washer will drive the race right out very easily.

thedeatons · #4 Post by **thedeatons** » Sat May 17, 2008 1:16 am

I couldn't type more earlier because I was sitting down to eat...

The heat trick usually does really well, but there have been some stubborn ones. Cdsracer modified a puller from Harbor Freight with curved lips on the jaws like 27 was talking about. That works really well. With this puller you also have to use a screwdriver to remove the cage and rollers, like 27 mentioned.

One of these two ways (heat or puller) will work for you!

Canniboomer · #5 Post by **Canniboomer** » Sat May 17, 2008 1:20 am

This OTC Stinger Kit does the trick, for everything except the large tranny thin needle bearing.
It's fast and simple, without having to break out rollers or cages,........ and it's very high quality. The Jaw collets can be re-ordered separately, FYI.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OTC-4581-BE...L080513145a8327

now I see they have only 2 sets in this auction listing, and those guys are still about $20 less than other peddlers,......... hmmn, if those 2 are not snapped up by this weekend,
I might just grab another set.

kdeal · #6 Post by **kdeal** » Sat May 17, 2008 2:34 am

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ May 16 2008, 09:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This OTC Stinger Kit does the trick, for everything except the large tranny thin needle bearing.
It's fast and simple, without having to break out rollers or cages,........ and it's very high quality. The Jaw collets can be re-ordered separately, FYI.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OTC-4581-BE...L080513145a8327

now I see they have only 2 sets in this auction listing, and those guys are still about $20 less than other peddlers,......... hmmn, if those 2 are not snapped up by this weekend,
I might just grab another set.

I use something very similar, but the one I have removes every bearing in the case and the bearings are reusable with this type of puller..

Canniboomer · #7 Post by **Canniboomer** » Sat May 17, 2008 3:09 am

I have a Snap-On and Proto U-type that work for the large needle bearing, and all others,... but they still cannot compare to the OTC style. And between EasyE and myself, I bet we have 3 broken Chinese pullers from Harbor Freight and others.
OTC is actually SPX Kent-Moore by the way, and made in the USA or high quality out of Japan-Taiwan. Of course, SPX Kent-Moore made our Mil tool, the Bearing and Seal Drivers Kit, the Wristpin extractor, Degree Wheel, and other Custom tools for the Cannondale Factory and Dealers. The kit from OTC is the same production quality, FYI. Anybody would love it, if it's within a reachable price range.

As for ever re-using a pulled or pushed out bearing?, it never occurred to me to even consider that.... but some types do look OK without a microscope?...it's just that the side-pressure to extract them, however gently, is probably not worth the risk.

Kenny, maybe our collets are interchangeable?,.... please PM or post any details, tks.... as cheaper is sometimes better, and particularly for one or two-time users.

TG2891 · #8 Post by **TG2891** » Sat May 17, 2008 4:29 am

Thanks everyone, just bought one of the blind bearing pullers.
FYI- Now there is only 1 left.

Lastly , how about the bearings on the balancing shaft? Should they be replaced too? And please don't tell me that the puller I just bought does not pull them.

Canniboomer · #9 Post by **Canniboomer** » Sat May 17, 2008 6:04 am

Yes it will work fine, but you can use other means for the plate bearing, and the starter-gear bearing, since you have two-side access to those.
Those 2 end bearings are about $16, and all 3 are about $23...all OEMs or better. The bal-shaft plate bearing alone is $10.
They can be re-used sometimes after rinsing and rotating with spray lube for cleaning and grit detection (pinky finger works good for that) -- change when in doubt, or if any notchiness or play.
Also watch your thrust washers for groove wear -- those hummers have to work hard!, and can get overlooked.

Canniboomer · #10 Post by **Canniboomer** » Tue May 20, 2008 6:17 am

Yo TG2891,..........I posted up some pictures of that kit, and the various pulled bearings.....

http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...mp;#entry190404