Cannondaleriders

So I'm gonna make a custom exhaust. I'll post more pics when I get the mid pipe built. This header has had the insides deburred and cromexed inside and out. Cromex is a ceramic coating like a jet coat or anything like that. It helps with heat dissipation and exhaust flow. I've had good luck with it in the past.

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The mid pipe will be coated the same and the can will be around 14" long. Right now it looks like it's gonna be loud. Around 99 to 100dbs. I'll have a spark arrestor in it but it won't be USFS approved because of the custom application. The can is based off a streetbike can. This is the only pic I have of what the can might look like. The same company that makes these CZR pipes made me a can.

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I'll post more pics as I have more progress. I was gonna post a pic with the header installed, but it looks like I have to basically pull that darn motor to get to the header!

I'm starting to see that there is absolutely no room to work on these. ha ha. I enjoy the challenge though.

No pulling the engine! Put a jack under the engine to hold the quad where it is now (elevation-wise). Yank the front/rear plastics, the gas tank, and then unbolt the top of the rear shock and swing it rearward to rest against the frame. You now have access to the header! Use a 12 point 5/16" socket (1/4" drive) to remove the stock header nuts. Make sure you pick up some new exhaust gaskets from Brad or Boomer.

I am working on a similar conversion but the header has to be modified more than ust a 2" flare, unless your canister is super slim. I will try to get some of my pics soon too.. Good work.

Trial and error! I love it. We'll see how it turns out. The can will be the size around as a nmotion can, but longer. Should be cool. 2" tapered core. It should have a good bottom and mid hit. Top end will be good too. I'm a duner so I had it built to what I think will work good for that.

Thanks for the tip on the header removal.

9in cans work the best for over all hp the longer cans lost hps over the short ones just to let u know. ive been through it, tryed them all.

Interesting! 9" for the main body, or inlet tip to outlet tip?

I have a long canister I am working with, so testing it will be interesting!

The 14" measurment is from the inlet to the very tip. I was worried about it being obnoxiously loud so I opted for the longer can. I had a Sparks big core, Rossier 9" can, nmotion 9" can and a custom built White brothers on my yfz. I loved the performance of the nmotion and rossier, but my ears would ring after a ride. And the rossier fell apart! We'll see how it works though, and I'll switch out cans if need be.

FYI, I was gonna use a nmotion can, but they are no longer making them. Nmotion is strictly a aftermarket supply shop now. They will be coming out with a new pipe under the name JSR. The JSR stands for John Stallworth Racing. He was the brains behind the nmotion performance division. The nmotion exhaust was actually built by M4. I don't know what happened, but JSR will be the new Nmotion pipe and it will have a whole new design. Supposedly he is about 60 days out from having some type of prototype, and they will be considerably more expensive dure to steele prices going through the roof. So if you want a "nmotion" style can, you will have to go through M4. They are good people and a great performer. The M4 pipes are less than the nmotion pipes because they didn't say "nmotion" on them.

I really wish Jardine made exhaust systems for these quads. I love thier systems.

The shorty cans are the way to go. On my custom dual exhaust we used 8'' cans and they made alot more power than the full length mufflers. We decided on the exact length by finding the "hot spot" on the 14'' mufflers...thats how they determine the length of headers on race cars.

We also tried just head pipes and then extensions on the headpipes...straight through no mufflers. That lost horsepower.

The next step is a custom gas tank with bigger tubes right out of the head, built as straight as possible, and possibly bigger cores.

Looks like I'll be cutting down the can. We'll see. This isn't gonna be for a drag application, so if I have to lose 1 or 2 hp peak for the life of my ears, I'll take it. I rarely drag, and really just want a nice smooth power increase over stock. We'll see how it turns out though. I appreciate everyones advice. Lots of food for thought.

For you guys that do the drags, why not machine some pieces to relocate or of center the rear shock and bring the exhaust straight back??? Not sure how much work this would be but could work.

I love centermount exhaust! I had a friend who did it on a yfz. Had to remove the airbox and build a custom intake. Withthe intake being up front I wish the cannondale would be easier for this. But seeing as the shock has to be moved to even take the header off I don't know how this could be done. Anything is possible. For a drag application, if a marvin shaw was used or a strut, that would free up some space and a centermount would be awesome. A centermount reversed megaphone pipe would pull some great numbers. zero to one or two small bends and stright back to a reverse megaphone. Man, makes me want o buy another dale and make it all out drag. Ha haha