No fuel pump
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I just got the ECU back from being setup. Wouldn't it show in the procal if the driver was bad?? I checked the ground for the ecu. Thats good. Battery is giving juice because the motor turns over. Just won't start because there is no fuel. Whats the safest and best way to check if the pump is working??? I don't want to fry the ecu.
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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Yep, you could touch to the POS terminal of the battery, for a split second, just to verify if the pump works or not. As long as the harness pigtail is unplugged, you won't hurt the ECU. If the pump is normal, it will humm with or without any fuel in the line. A fully connected good pump will self-prime within the first few seconds, when you first bump it to life with the start button.
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Actually, we have brought some fuel pumps back from the dead..... Try this before giving up on your pump:
- disconnect your return line at the tank pigtail and use a spare fitting (I think I may have sent you one) to extend that line off to the right side or into a separate container (or into a white rag is good, to help detect rust and varnish).
- disconnect the fuel filter at the lower clamp.
- with an air hose, cram it into the lead line into the pump, and give it a purging blast of air.
- fill the same line again with WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, SeaFoam, or your favorite multi-purpose spray,....and blast again...and again.
- reconnect your lines, or when fumes are safe to try the pump again, do another direct 12-volt test of the pump.
You will find that if our fuelpump is seized inside, it may not make any sound or vibration at all,.....even with 12-volts directly applied -- but once the inner steel gerotor is freed up with solvent and air-blasting, they can return to normal operation! It's worth a chance, and you are cleaning moisture, rust, varnish, and possible gelling out of the lines, bungs, and fuel regulator at the same time.
- disconnect your return line at the tank pigtail and use a spare fitting (I think I may have sent you one) to extend that line off to the right side or into a separate container (or into a white rag is good, to help detect rust and varnish).
- disconnect the fuel filter at the lower clamp.
- with an air hose, cram it into the lead line into the pump, and give it a purging blast of air.
- fill the same line again with WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, SeaFoam, or your favorite multi-purpose spray,....and blast again...and again.
- reconnect your lines, or when fumes are safe to try the pump again, do another direct 12-volt test of the pump.
You will find that if our fuelpump is seized inside, it may not make any sound or vibration at all,.....even with 12-volts directly applied -- but once the inner steel gerotor is freed up with solvent and air-blasting, they can return to normal operation! It's worth a chance, and you are cleaning moisture, rust, varnish, and possible gelling out of the lines, bungs, and fuel regulator at the same time.