I hate to bring this up but ......

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miller502 · #1 Post by **miller502** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:30 am

I have read many long and drawn out posts on oil but I don't think this question has been asked. So here goes, #1 When you check the oil, do you screw the dipstick all the way in or just rest it on top of the port for an accurate reading? #2 what weight oil should I use for south Louisiana? #3 Is there a low oil engine shut-off safety feature on these quads? Oh by the way, I have a 2006 ATK 450vr. Thanks in advance for the replies and I hope I didn't just stir up a 1000 reply debate.

Crazie · #2 Post by **Crazie** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:05 am

A suggestion I have read was to cut off the dipstick completely and disregard any reading you get from it. You can use a flashlight to look through the hole, and your oil level should be just below or even with the hole in the spar. From what I've read, some of the spars weren't molded perfectly, so the dipstick can rub the spar on the way out and give a false positive reading (i.e. not enough oil, but the dipstick looks good).

I'm using this method now and haven't had any issues. It seems the easiest way for me. That should answer questions 1 & 2.

As for #3, any good synthetic 10-30 should be fine....although you could probably get away with 20-50 in the summer. Here's a good article I found that helps you understand the ratings. Just stay away from anything that has the words "Energy Conserving" if you use an automotive oil. Those have friction modifiers in them, and if you use them for the clutch it will cause the fibers to glaze over.

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0788/article.html

This is mostly opinionated based on what I've read, and I haven't been active here as much as some, but hopefully this helps.

2mike18 · #3 Post by **2mike18** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:20 am

I thought the engine and trans fluids are different and dont share the same resivors.

Crazie · #4 Post by **Crazie** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:27 am

They are, but there are several people, including me, who use the same thing in both. Certainly makes it easier to only need one type of fluid. I think Amsoil actually recommends using the 10-30 oil in the tranny.

rayspeed · #5 Post by **rayspeed** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:32 am

I predict two hijackings, four pages and a full on debate over what oil and a venture into the ditch of how much goes in there.
Good advise DK welcome to the club. For the record I think the manual says run it for a bit and shut it off and screw it in all the way. Doing this while running seems to be get about the same results from my experience... as long as you dont have the frame issue which is very rare.

Absolutly no oil shutdown or warning to answer your second question.

Crazie · #6 Post by **Crazie** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:40 am

It certainly does seem to be a much debated subject. I usually just find a method that works and stick with it...no matter what the machine.

miller502 · #7 Post by **miller502** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:59 am

I am bringing the quad in for service and then gonna sell it. It is brand new and I won it on a raffle ticket. Just having a minor starting issue, i would guess it's from the quad sitting up for about a year with minimal running. If you guys know anyone who may be interested, it will go dirt cheap.

thedeatons · #8 Post by **thedeatons** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:48 am

LOL....

Fill with as much oil as you can without it puking out of the vent line. That is my PC advice on this forum. LOL Once you learn how much it pukes at you can look at the dipstick and see where you should stop in the future.

As for what oil, Rotella T in the blue jug at Wal Mart is great, or Red Line synthetic. I have friends who have run oil in their tranny and they feel like crap to me... sorry for putting it that way, but it is my opinion. At least use Bel Ray Gear Saver, but I prefer Red Line Lightweight Shock Proof gear oil in the tranny.

Crazie · #9 Post by **Crazie** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:58 am

QUOTE (thedeatons @ Dec 9 2008, 09:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

As for what oil, Rotella T in the blue jug at Wal Mart is great, or Red Line synthetic. I have friends who have run oil in their tranny and they feel like crap to me... sorry for putting it that way, but it is my opinion. At least use Bel Ray Gear Saver, but I prefer Red Line Lightweight Shock Proof gear oil in the tranny.

No need for apologies. Did any of the ones with motor oil have issues getting into neutral? I'm going to try gear oil next time to see if that solves it. If not, I'll probably keep doing what I'm doing now.

thedeatons · #10 Post by **thedeatons** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:40 am

They all have issues going into neutral. Cannondale designed the trannys as race trannys, and did NOT want neutral to be found when it could mean losing a race. This in turn meant that neutral is elusive all the time. The trannys break in a bit over time, but will never be a Japanese tranny.

By the way, I have ridden many sportbikes, from Yamaha to Ducati to Aprillia, etc... This is THE smoothest tranny ever.