kdeal was kind enough to give me some spec's on the Cannibal I just bought. Going through my notes I ran across info stating valves on all 01 and early 02's are some of the highest quality valves available. I was give 12/10/01 as this quad's date (engine #1247). Maybe it doesn't matter now being the age it is, but this head should at least fall into the "good valve" situation on this one correct?
Any other information on engines manufactured around late 2001 (crank, case, sleeve quality, etc)?
Thanks
Question on engine # and man. date
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
All the motors have good valves. I bet your thinking of the cams? Some early motors have what we call FX cams. Thats a good thing. Thing is with these motors and the recalls and such the only sure way of knowing what you've got is to take a look inside unless you have a MC500 ecu which uses one of the FX cams. Would also mean you have a aluminum valve cover. About only bad thing about early motors is the crank main bearing flywheel side is inferior.
I can????????t argue 27 as I simply don????????t know enough about the Cannondale????????s yet. The info I have does state there????????s varying quality of valves though. Hey, that????????s why I think this site is great. I????????m all for doing the research myself, but getting options and feedback from others helps in the long run.
Dave just sent out a variety of parts for ???????external??????? upgrades (fuel system, ele., strainers, etc.). I????????m going to start there, review the outcome and then pull the engine. I????????m with you, as you don????????t really know until you get in there, but the more knowledge/background of what I may have can at least give me an indication of what I????????m in for. Thanks for the reply.
Dave just sent out a variety of parts for ???????external??????? upgrades (fuel system, ele., strainers, etc.). I????????m going to start there, review the outcome and then pull the engine. I????????m with you, as you don????????t really know until you get in there, but the more knowledge/background of what I may have can at least give me an indication of what I????????m in for. Thanks for the reply.
All of the stock valves are good. You might have read something regarding the taper where the stems meet the base. Some of the valves had a slight ridge there, some didn't. Doesn't really matter though. There has been no run of valve failures due to the manufacture dates or base type. Just the "crap happens" scenario.
There is a slight difference in the valves but none are "bad". The early FX400 valves (quite possibly the ones with the step) are heavier and a little beefier looking. The rest of the valves pretty much look the same. However, there were some valves near the end and used as replacement valvles off the shelf that are slightly shorter on the stem length and require a larger shim to meet specs. But again, none of them were problematic.
On the cams, there were several variations. C27 mentions the best ones above.
On the cases, I have seen both good and bad older model ones and the same with the newer style cases. I love to start my HP builds with the older cable clutch blocks and FX400 ones especially. FX400 needs to have the main bearing in the case upgraded (which takes machine work). BUT, there is a cable clutch case that has a very dark concrete gray color inside that is very brittle and prone to cracking. If you get the case before the problem, you can relieve the radius to the inside of the case to head off the most common area that cracks (just above and to the right of the main bearing where the sleeve sits). Hydro cases are another story. I have seen some that look like a bunch of glitter was glued together (powdered metal). I have seen some others that look just like a case from say a Yamaha Banshee (real smooth surface). My biggest worry is what the case looks like when I get it. I have yet to have a case crack once I have massaged it.
On the cams, there were several variations. C27 mentions the best ones above.
On the cases, I have seen both good and bad older model ones and the same with the newer style cases. I love to start my HP builds with the older cable clutch blocks and FX400 ones especially. FX400 needs to have the main bearing in the case upgraded (which takes machine work). BUT, there is a cable clutch case that has a very dark concrete gray color inside that is very brittle and prone to cracking. If you get the case before the problem, you can relieve the radius to the inside of the case to head off the most common area that cracks (just above and to the right of the main bearing where the sleeve sits). Hydro cases are another story. I have seen some that look like a bunch of glitter was glued together (powdered metal). I have seen some others that look just like a case from say a Yamaha Banshee (real smooth surface). My biggest worry is what the case looks like when I get it. I have yet to have a case crack once I have massaged it.
Here's what I had in my notes on the valves-
Valves:Misconception that cdale valves are low quality.Actually the valves on all 01 and early 02 are the highest quality valves available.These valves have #'s on the sides of the tips.They were made originally by kibblewhite and have hardened tip and are actually better then the new replacement by kibblewhite.Late 02 and 03 are not as good as the earlier,but are stainless valves,but do not have hardened tips,but still good valves.
Valves:Misconception that cdale valves are low quality.Actually the valves on all 01 and early 02 are the highest quality valves available.These valves have #'s on the sides of the tips.They were made originally by kibblewhite and have hardened tip and are actually better then the new replacement by kibblewhite.Late 02 and 03 are not as good as the earlier,but are stainless valves,but do not have hardened tips,but still good valves.
It is good general practice to replace the valves on a head with alot of hours and is down for a rebuild if I am not mistaken.
So my guess is that yours need replaced anyway, so you would be better serving yourself to make sure that you have no sticky buckets or worn cams and just replace them and check your keepers closely, there are some that are more problematic than others.
Of the valves that have dropped most could be attributed as the result of one of those problems more so than a problem with the valves themselves.
So my guess is that yours need replaced anyway, so you would be better serving yourself to make sure that you have no sticky buckets or worn cams and just replace them and check your keepers closely, there are some that are more problematic than others.
Of the valves that have dropped most could be attributed as the result of one of those problems more so than a problem with the valves themselves.
congrats on your recent purchase.As you may have already learned theres a plethora of info on this site regarding the cannondales.Take the time to use the search feature and go back in the archives and review old posts,that worked for me,when i got my fx400,i didnt know too much about these things other than they needed the cranks updated.After dropping the motor for a crank job,i consider myself a cannondale pro,well not quite but none the less i learned a lot in the short time i owned it.Dont get too down when things dont always work out the first time,its gonna happen,count on it,just take your time when assembling the motor after serious work,its no fun dropping the motor again.oh if you pull the head,put the motor at TDC with the bolt and mark the cams and idler gear for replacement later on,its better than trying to count teeth.Surely you'll learn tid bits and tricks along the way,good luck wit'dat...