Cannondaleriders

hello all,

well some of you may know my story or stories, but either way i'm rebuilding again after my decomp exploded a few weeks back. took out the intake cams and 1 bucket, but the shear pins did their job . my last few build i left the timing stock and was very happy with the power, but i know there is more power to pull from the motor plus stepping up the power band. so, im going to finish the motor tomorrow night, hopefully i'll get some input other than what i've found already through searches and posts. these guys are so snappy to begin with, so i dont mind loosing a little on the bottom to get a better mid-top end machine. this is what is done to the motor......

-ported head
-stock piston
-full ti exhaust "no packing"
-canniboomer or similar k&n intake
-also have had boomer do the computer as well, more fuel etc.....
-not to mention a new crank with the updated bearing $$$$........

hope to hear back, and have the engine done soon. besides that having a lot of powder done too, cant wait

thanks to everyone......

Kevin

I had fantastic results with 108/106. Good midrange punch and overrev without loss of bottom end.

thanks,

any others? i've read a few running like a 113 / 109 or 111 / 109.......

please keep them coming

kevin

106i/106e is factory spec and is strong on the bottom and mid
106i/109e settings are reported to have a smooth power delivery and more on top
107i/108e settings are reported to work well for mx with a strong mid and top
108i/106e settings are reported to have a good top end hit without loosing too much low and mid
108i/108e settings sacrifice some bottom and mid for more top end

I ended up with 107i/106e and dyno'd at 52 hp and I am happy with how it pulls
I dont know what you will get when you start looking at extreme numbers like 113.

as always....thanks.....keep them coming....

The higher timing degrees will be for more top end with extensively modded motors or drag racing. With a 495 or 505 you dont really need to worry about losing some off the bottom with the timing.

I just degreed my 495 at 112/109 so we will see how that works out

so is each tooth worth a degree? clockwise to advance and counter to retard? like i said i was at stock before; i guess 106/106, just lined up the marks on the gears. i used that method x with no problems. i can do this with out a wheel right? im more of push rod small block builder....all this over head cam stuff is new to me.....

keivn

oh no no no. you need a degree wheel and a vice. You will take the gear off the cam and shift it over a step, put the gear back on and check the degrees via the manual.

ok, so just like advancing or retarding any other overhead cam? my question is what is considered a "step"? like to bolt her back up tonight.......

thanks guys and gals if your out there!

In an adjustment you are only moving the pins which only moves the gear a minute amount.
The mark on the gear will still line up with the lobe pretty much but you wont be able to see that change just by looking at it.
If you only have a four hole cam as oposed to the twelve hole cam you may have somewhat limited adjustment.