wants to stall

Engine, intake, exhaust, EFI, chain, sprockets, etc.
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Denny08
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#1 Post by Denny08 »

I wondering if anyone can help me out? Just put a pod filter on myblaze took it out and it was to lean so I made it richer,but now when I start it to let it warm up it will run great for a few minutes then rpms will start to drop to the point where if I let it it will die. After it dies it takes for ever to get it started. any ideas would be great

wistech
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#2 Post by wistech »

What did you do to make it richer? How much change? I assume you removed the stock airbox. In doing so you should be sure you didnt rip the throttle body boot .

Denny08
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#3 Post by Denny08 »

Ihave a D&M that I used on it. I did get rid of the stock airbox, the boot is ok I checked that ot make sure. Dave walked me through the settings it was at 2603 and we changed it 2400 for starters but I have changed that to 2475 it seemed to rich.

Canniboomer
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#4 Post by Canniboomer »

Idle screw set too low?
Has the tank been off?, and a line maybe crimped or not clicked in?
It sure sounds like a fueling issue, unless you may have recalibrated the throttle voltages, and something did not read in correctly.


MX Quad Dad
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#5 Post by MX Quad Dad »

2603 sounds like it may have still been at the factory setting with a choked down muffler (cannible/speed). do you have an aftermarket exhaust also and were the settings allready changed for that?

Just my thinking but figure the pods better air flow wouldn't affect as much at low rpms or idle and if your original setting was on the rich side maybe you took to big a swing at it with 2400. I would also wonder how you are determining it that it was to rich at 2400

weird but for referance my speed factory setting was 2603 and Moto was 2400

I guess I would also ask what else has been done to the engine and exhaust.

wistech
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#6 Post by wistech »

I think the first thing I would do is hook up the D@M and get it warmed up. Then set your idle speed. If its erratic go up and down on the offset to see if it stops the stalling. Reset the idle speed each time.

Denny08
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#7 Post by Denny08 »

It has full HMF system on it.The motor itself is stock, when I ran it for a while then did a plug check the plug was black so I took a little fuel out of it. When I put the pod filter on I took it out for a ride did a plug check and the plug was completely white.So to set the idle speed do I not set it by the idle screw. Also I got rid of the quick connects.When I calibrated the throttle I disconnected the throttle cable an did by hand making sure it was closed completely and open all the way

wistech
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#8 Post by wistech »

Doing a throttle cal also requires turning the idle adjuster knob down so it no longer will touch the throttle cam. Then you hold the throttle closed and hit the low setting on the D@M screen. Running extreme lean will cause surging and choopy throttle response with possible backfiring out the tailpipe. Rich will just be boggy. Super rich at idle will usually require a lot of idle screw adjustment to get the idle to come up to where its supposed to be.

Denny08
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#9 Post by Denny08 »

I backed the idle screw all the way out when I did the throttle cal.That is exactly what it is doing you have to put alot of turns on the screw to get the idle up.So do I just need to keep taking more fuel out of it.

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