HI,
Just wonderig if anyone knows how a BTL cluth works? As I understand, it works like a regular clutch except when you are slowing down and then it slips the clutch. Is that right? How do they work that inside the clutch itself?
THanks
God bless...
Mark
Back Torque Limiting clutch?
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I have a Yoyodyne. Way it works is there are ramps in the clutch hub and a second set of springs controlling the ramp in the hub. When wheel/tranny speed overcomes the engine speed it forces the clutch hub outward releasing the friction discs.
I am not running MX much but almost all our Harescrambles include part or all of a MX track and it is very noticeable there especially on whooped out downhills and fast corners. It feels like you upgraded your shocks and then it also feels like power gets to ground sooner. You all are going to think I am nuts but our Cannondales aren't known for being the best at low rpm's especially when its a 432cc ported, airbox stock exhaust motor like mine. Anyway the last two Harescrambles I have never stalled the motor and I am no A-class racer. Last hour I find it amazing I don't keel over. Climbing hills off center with a bike rut on one side and logs and roots all the way up and down tends to lead to stalls when you are in 1st or maybe 2nd gear and thinking your going to die. I have probably 20hrs on it now and is not wearing the clutch plates anymore than before. I thought brakes were going to be a wear issue since you would think that you would have to use them more. I don't believe thats true since the brakes seem more effective with the clutch. You use less pressure on the brake lever to get the job done. Most of all I have broken 2 decomps at same time or shortly after a millesecond stall when tapping rear brake on a downhill or once in a big whoops section and not getting clutch in in time. You know. The kind where anyone watching wouldn't even know it stalled. That type stall has never happened since I put clutch in. Honestly I have found nothing but good things from this setup and for MX and TT it would really be helpful. Here is some pics of insides of it. Check there whole site out. Yea for thier prices it may not be worth it but they are being sold by Blackwidow for 1/2 that and if guy on Ebay ever lists them again its even less. So why not try something state of art. Why let the pros have all the fun!
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/motorcycle_slipp...utch_operat.htm
I am not running MX much but almost all our Harescrambles include part or all of a MX track and it is very noticeable there especially on whooped out downhills and fast corners. It feels like you upgraded your shocks and then it also feels like power gets to ground sooner. You all are going to think I am nuts but our Cannondales aren't known for being the best at low rpm's especially when its a 432cc ported, airbox stock exhaust motor like mine. Anyway the last two Harescrambles I have never stalled the motor and I am no A-class racer. Last hour I find it amazing I don't keel over. Climbing hills off center with a bike rut on one side and logs and roots all the way up and down tends to lead to stalls when you are in 1st or maybe 2nd gear and thinking your going to die. I have probably 20hrs on it now and is not wearing the clutch plates anymore than before. I thought brakes were going to be a wear issue since you would think that you would have to use them more. I don't believe thats true since the brakes seem more effective with the clutch. You use less pressure on the brake lever to get the job done. Most of all I have broken 2 decomps at same time or shortly after a millesecond stall when tapping rear brake on a downhill or once in a big whoops section and not getting clutch in in time. You know. The kind where anyone watching wouldn't even know it stalled. That type stall has never happened since I put clutch in. Honestly I have found nothing but good things from this setup and for MX and TT it would really be helpful. Here is some pics of insides of it. Check there whole site out. Yea for thier prices it may not be worth it but they are being sold by Blackwidow for 1/2 that and if guy on Ebay ever lists them again its even less. So why not try something state of art. Why let the pros have all the fun!
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/motorcycle_slipp...utch_operat.htm
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I will take a look. I used the website instructions I posted above to get the measurement right. Ended up using a combination of the thin and thick fibres. I have been keeping a eye on it and no more folded tabs like stock basket gives you. Probably have close to 15 hrs on it so far and no issues at all.
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I know you all will say this wasn't designed for Harescrambles and such but I really liked it in all types of riding but I am sorry to say it didn't make a season. Was out riding some tight stuff today and burned up the clutch. This has never happened with stock. Difference is stock you use a steel first and last. The slipper you MUST use fibre first and last. Fibre's wore into the faceplate and hub plate forming a ridge. Once ridge got big enough fibre part of disc couldn't make contact. Burned steels pretty good from slipping also. Just like old 250r or Banshee. Shame but this little experiment is over and slipper will go into my race quad which isn't used so hard or often as trail quad.
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