Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 12:26 am
Finally broke down and bought a dial indicator, wheel, dial mount, etc to do cam timing. I have 3 sets of cams, 1 new and 2 lightly used but well in spec according to caliper readings. After doing about 5 checks on each and verifying I was doing it correct, I'm getting 106 on every cam. None of them are off and readings were identical each time with all 3 intake and all 3 exhausts.
I have 450 12.5:1 piston, stock stroke crank, ported head, open intake, HMF exhaust, throttle body ported, and I believe that's it. Two almost identical motors are being done with almost brand new everything.
I plan on doing solely MX, mostly wide open high speed tracks, on them. I've read different things and been told go for 107 intake and 108/109 exhaust. Not quite the 106/106 combo I have now. But here's my issue: I'm living in an apartment for a few more months and have nothing more than basic handtools to do this on hand. Is there really any way to change the pin location on the cams to achieve these without a bench vice with wood/soft blocks? I'm drawing a blank on what I can use to break the gears loose and move the pins, and then retighten later.
Would 106/106 be a waste for what I'm doing or not a big enough issue to even bother with here? I'd like to throw them in and get them going, but don't want to be down on possible free performance increase if it's a big difference. Any ideas/experiences here?
I have 450 12.5:1 piston, stock stroke crank, ported head, open intake, HMF exhaust, throttle body ported, and I believe that's it. Two almost identical motors are being done with almost brand new everything.
I plan on doing solely MX, mostly wide open high speed tracks, on them. I've read different things and been told go for 107 intake and 108/109 exhaust. Not quite the 106/106 combo I have now. But here's my issue: I'm living in an apartment for a few more months and have nothing more than basic handtools to do this on hand. Is there really any way to change the pin location on the cams to achieve these without a bench vice with wood/soft blocks? I'm drawing a blank on what I can use to break the gears loose and move the pins, and then retighten later.
Would 106/106 be a waste for what I'm doing or not a big enough issue to even bother with here? I'd like to throw them in and get them going, but don't want to be down on possible free performance increase if it's a big difference. Any ideas/experiences here?