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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:12 pm
by muff
Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:16 pm
by Happyboy
That there would be a Falicon. A lot of mixed reviews on them, and that arises from very poor Quality testing. Some of us got cranks that worked great, while others received cranks that were so off balance it shook the entire machine or whose splines wouldn't line up so timing was off.
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:09 am
by MX Quad Dad
I'm not sure but, wasn't there something about when rebuilding them (Falcon cranks) there was a good chance they would crack by the big end? or is yours just the weld that cracked?
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:22 am
by muff
I'm not sure but, wasn't there something about when rebuilding them (Falcon cranks) there was a good chance they would crack by the big end? or is yours just the weld that cracked?
Its just the weld itself thats cracked. Going to have to take a picture of that. Think anyone would be interested like it is?
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:36 am
by who_gives_a6
Couldnt say, but a similar one sold on ebay for $100 today. Owner thought it was stock.
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 5:18 am
by rayspeed
If I remember right one of the biggest problems with them was that the oil hole for the big end rod bearing was offset in the worst way by ending up right at the edge of where the bearing roller ran so about time it was broke in good or sooner one would catch in there and wipe out the rod and pin. Timbo could fix them but I think he hates them because they are so labor intensive.
It does look like an impressive piece tho I will say.
Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:13 pm
by muff
Couldnt say, but a similar one sold on ebay for $100 today. Owner thought it was stock.
That was this one, I pulled the listing down. I've never seen the inside of a cannondale motor before and there wasn't any on eBay to compare to.. With that said I would sell it like it is for $100.
If I remember right one of the biggest problems with them was that the oil hole for the big end rod bearing was offset in the worst way by ending up right at the edge of where the bearing roller ran so about time it was broke in good or sooner one would catch in there and wipe out the rod and pin. Timbo could fix them but I think he hates them because they are so labor intensive.
It does look like an impressive piece tho I will say.
It is a nice looking crank, I ran one in my yfz a few years back and seemed pretty solid. That thing sure had some torque!
Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:03 am
by micro10
[quote name='muff' date='Mar 9 2012, 03:13 PM' post='228999']
That was this one, I pulled the listing down. I've never seen the inside of a cannondale motor before and there wasn't any on eBay to compare to.. With that said I would sell it like it is for $100.
I'm interested in it for a $100,need a crank for my engine.Do you know what stroke it is?
Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:04 pm
by wistech
There are a lot of things they didnt quite make right on the cranks. If you look at the taper where the flywheel mounts it is galling because the flywheel isnt quite seating . The main journals can be machined to big causing the bearing to fit very tight on the rollers. The splines for the crank /cam gear could be loose and cause the chain to get tight and loose and break the tensioner and also mess up timing. The rod journal problem and balancing have already been explained. It should also be checked for trueness and runout. If all those issues are addressed they should be okay to run. Of course it might cost twice as much as a stock crank to fix. Hopefully the crank halves dont shatter when pressing apart.
It might be helpfull to find out from the owner trail why it was removed .
If not I see if you can get Tim to check it out . Or I guess you could just install it an see what happens.
Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:06 pm
by micro10
There are a lot of things they didnt quite make right on the cranks. If you look at the taper where the flywheel mounts it is galling because the flywheel isnt quite seating . The main journals can be machined to big causing the bearing to fit very tight on the rollers. The splines for the crank /cam gear could be loose and cause the chain to get tight and loose and break the tensioner and also mess up timing. The rod journal problem and balancing have already been explained. It should also be checked for trueness and runout. If all those issues are addressed they should be okay to run. Of course it might cost twice as much as a stock crank to fix. Hopefully the crank halves dont shatter when pressing apart.
It might be helpfull to find out from the owner trail why it was removed .
If not I see if you can get Tim to check it out . Or I guess you could just install it an see what happens.
I was looking at taking it back to falicon to have them look at it,their only 60 miles from me.This is a trial and error thing with me running it on one of my cars,I'd rather chance this than a new stock crank coming apart.
