So I finally made it to the dyno yesterday. when I was messing around with the quad today I noticed about a tsp of oil in the ECU tray ( I have a boomer venting system), I have oil flow thru the frame when I look in the fill hole. Is this something to worry about or is it due to the larger CC's of the engine (467) and not being able to keep up with venting and the high rpms of the dyno? I was on the dyno for about three hours. I pressure tested the motor after assembly and couldn't find any leaks.
Thanks
Shawn
blowing oil out the vent.
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
That's not a bad result, but you can raise the puke threshold even more.
Make sure that all fittings in your venting are 3/8(min 5/16), and all hoses are 3/8.
Make sure there is no "dip" or valley in the forward running breather hose, which will trap a small volume of oil after each shut down, and then that same oil volume will immediately spit out when you crank to start the motor again.
If the airbox is gone?.... route that same breather hose OVER the top of the upper venting crossyoke, and additionally high-arch extend that same hose before terminating with a breather (a kit for that w K&N breather, hose, tray grommet euro clamps etc, is included w my intake kits, but I could separate one).
Make sure there is no "hump" in the hose from the starter clutchcover over thru the Tee and to the right rear ventframe -- keep a flat route for max oil drainage.
Here is a pic of 2 quarts of frame-sump oil alone,... as drained from a hi-comp 460 than ran for a very hard weekend. Indeed, venting DOES matter, and too many machines still have 1/4" tees and lines out there, and of course will puke more oil. And just running the breather hose down to the chain will certainly lower the puking threshold. Your setup is probably good enough, but can still be improved, and you can prevent an oily mess buildup in the ECU tray.
Make sure that all fittings in your venting are 3/8(min 5/16), and all hoses are 3/8.
Make sure there is no "dip" or valley in the forward running breather hose, which will trap a small volume of oil after each shut down, and then that same oil volume will immediately spit out when you crank to start the motor again.
If the airbox is gone?.... route that same breather hose OVER the top of the upper venting crossyoke, and additionally high-arch extend that same hose before terminating with a breather (a kit for that w K&N breather, hose, tray grommet euro clamps etc, is included w my intake kits, but I could separate one).
Make sure there is no "hump" in the hose from the starter clutchcover over thru the Tee and to the right rear ventframe -- keep a flat route for max oil drainage.
Here is a pic of 2 quarts of frame-sump oil alone,... as drained from a hi-comp 460 than ran for a very hard weekend. Indeed, venting DOES matter, and too many machines still have 1/4" tees and lines out there, and of course will puke more oil. And just running the breather hose down to the chain will certainly lower the puking threshold. Your setup is probably good enough, but can still be improved, and you can prevent an oily mess buildup in the ECU tray.
48.5 rwhp and mid 30's tq... operator of the dyno said it is very stingy with the numbers. He stated that he has never had a quad show over 50rwhp on it, including over 500CC motors of any brand. I couldnt get the graphs tho 
... one map is VP C12 and E85 both made almost the same power but the E85 made just a smidgin more power under a 1 hp difference. Maybe in the spring I will go to a different dyno and make a couple of pulls just to compare numbers.
... one map is VP C12 and E85 both made almost the same power but the E85 made just a smidgin more power under a 1 hp difference. Maybe in the spring I will go to a different dyno and make a couple of pulls just to compare numbers.-
Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Wow, awesome results,... a great build!
I should clarify one thing from my post above. We still add only 1.5 full quart to every oil change... that 2 quart drain (actual 2.1 came out) was just
testing to prove that you CAN keep oil in these machines, no matter how gnarly the motor build is -- from 432 to 495's all installed and OK. It's nice to have some reserve venting capacity, so the machines are not constantly on the verge of puking.
I should clarify one thing from my post above. We still add only 1.5 full quart to every oil change... that 2 quart drain (actual 2.1 came out) was just
testing to prove that you CAN keep oil in these machines, no matter how gnarly the motor build is -- from 432 to 495's all installed and OK. It's nice to have some reserve venting capacity, so the machines are not constantly on the verge of puking.
I would do a bit more break in and a cylinder leakdown test. Fresh or worn out cylinders,to much ring end gap and caved in piston skirts(wiseco) tend to have excessive blowby which can overwhelm the stock venting system. If its over 10 percent you might have sealing issues. One the dyno I have seen one 505 have bit of vapor come out of the vent tubes under long sustained pulls but no liquid oil.
Im questioning blowby mostly because of the power results. If your getting mid 30 torque then Id say the dyno is accurate for a 467.
Are you sure you have the vent hoses routed correctly . Ive seen several quads with the frame drain and the scavange lines switched. I also recomend taking the hose that goes to the airbox and turning it straight down like other machines(road draft ) and let it blow on the ground instead of where the geniuses let it create a fire hazzard of hot oil all over the engine. This also comes in handy when submerging or washing as it wont let water in the engine oil.
Im questioning blowby mostly because of the power results. If your getting mid 30 torque then Id say the dyno is accurate for a 467.
Are you sure you have the vent hoses routed correctly . Ive seen several quads with the frame drain and the scavange lines switched. I also recomend taking the hose that goes to the airbox and turning it straight down like other machines(road draft ) and let it blow on the ground instead of where the geniuses let it create a fire hazzard of hot oil all over the engine. This also comes in handy when submerging or washing as it wont let water in the engine oil.