No, he is talking about a kit that Magura makes to bleed the slave cylinder. Comes with Magura blood and some strange bleeders that are probably for the jack you are referring to.
My bag! must have got side tracked reading it... , but yes those kits from Magura do come with stuff for bleeding the Hymec "Jack" also!
KDeal got it- SSM case, factory hydro. So, i guess I had no need for the HYMEC Jack parts- another reason not to buy the bleed kit.
CDS- that could be and sounds reasonable, but I'm feeling unlikely so far. Unfortunately, my quad has spent more than its share of months sitting untouched and this is the first this has happened. In addition to the fact that I'm using Redline which you can't even wipe off. The first couple plates def. still had a nice coat of oil on them.
Didn't get to try it last night- maybe tonight. If not fixed, I'll be pulling the plates out. I also need to confirm 2 plates or 1 as Wistech asked. I would expect I had 2, but memory fails me of being certain.
Neil, if you pull it apart again, verify if the groove is on the lower part of the hub and put ONE steel plate and at least use a thick factory fiber plate for the first one in the stack. Old school thinking was to just double up the first steel plate to two steels to move the first thin fiber plate up a little. A thicker fiber plate in the lowest spot does the same thing but has a better feel on the clutch.
Good tips, thanks. No time last night so we'll see over the weekend. I'm pulling it apart before testing it just to see what's down there. I wish I could remember. I should probably start writing stuff down!
I got a little garage time last night. Started the quad, the release action seems to be good now. However, now it's dragging! Clutch all the way in, hits hard when you put it in gear and starts gently pulling. Forget about hitting neutral, with all the force it takes to get it out of gear, it pops right into second. If it were a cable clutch, simple enough i'd tighten the cable a little and it would be golden. Not an option with the Magura. Suggestions? Looks like the pressure plate is moving the entire time the lever is pulled. I only had 1 plate on the bottom. I couldn't figure out the groove KDeal was asking about, so I took a pic. Can't get it off the SD card at work, though. I pulled it all apart and really don't see any issues. Put it back together with 2 plates on bottom and re-adjusted the set screw to 2-1/2 turns out but haven't been able to test it. My fibers are all thick ones (as it's an '03 9 fiber stack).
Observations: Clutch hub (for the inner splines) looks pretty good with a very slight amount of wear. I will try to keep my terminology straight from now on. I was previously calling the pressure plate the hub when describing the swap of the style of pressure plate styles.
I have rotated the plates before, so they're all showing some wear. I restacked best to worst.
Set screw will turn in exactly 5 turns before bottoming slave, so 2-1/2 back (or 3) sounds like a good place.
Between clutch plates were definitely well oiled. Fiber plate thickness is .088". Anybody know the thickness of new plates? There is still a little material left on the raised sections of the plates before hitting the lower section- should've measured lower thickness. I have another set of plates (9 fiber set) that are .0925" thick, but their history is unknown, so I'm not using them.
Got pics... one showing hub, the other showing oily plates. This is after it was started and run for about 1-2 minutes last night and 1-2 mins about a week ago. It sat since Sept. prior to that.
Does this show the groove you're talking about Ken?
Honestly, I feel like my problem at this point is all in the hydraulics.
One other thing- how do you get this slippery arse oil thoroughly coating the clutch plates and it not slip?!!! That's just crazy. The magic of modern materials...
The hub is NOT showing the groove down near the bottom I was speaking of. Check for big grooves up and down the hub. If none are too deep, put it back together. The rough transition of the clutch is almost always either the hub is grooved or the outer basket. Since the hub is aluminum and the basket heat treated steel, it's almost always a hub issue. Since you are not showing all of the plates, make sure none are too banged up on the fiber plate's ears and you are good to go.
Useally if the clutch drags with the lever fully in, would mean warped clutch plates. If they are warped it doesn't really matter if you have cable or hydraulic. if you adjusted it tighter on a cable the clutch would slip.
If the pressure plate moves smothly from fully out to fully in (might be a slight movement before the pressure plate starts to move), it doesn't sound like anytrhing is wrong with the Hydraulics. I thought you said it was slipping on the first ride and that could have warped the discs. Clean all steels and fibers and lay them on a flat surface to see if they are warped. Most bike manuals have a spec but, I'm not sure if there is one in the C-Dale manual
MXQD- you're right, it did slip a little on that first ride. I nursed it back to the trailhead and went to work on it. The slipping wasn't 100% of the time, very slight on hard throttle up hill kind of thing. There were probably 15 hours of hard riding afterwards with no issue.
However after a little time out there tonight there's an update. I rode it up and down the street a little. It seemed about right, but the issues were most noticeable from a stop. So now as I let the lever out, it would slightly pull at 1/3 out, then just relax till I get to 1/2 out then start pulling again. Got back to the garage and noticed the sight glass seemed a little fuller than the 1/2 glass I keep it at. Drained the oil and somebody had come in and sprinkled some glitter all over the filter. There was alot of fiber with glitter on the filter.
So, out, apart, and back in it went. Didn't find anything major. Only issue I could find was a gear slightly rubbing on a shift fork. I called that the glitter maker. Took a million measurements of the gears and shafts, all in spec, and put it back together. The timing chain was stretched quite a bit- about 10 clicks on the tensioner. So, it got replaced. Valve clearances were the same as when it went together about 2 years ago, maybe 40-50 hours. I went ahead and replaced the clutch fibers and springs, metals were all pretty flat. I had the 9 fiber set in it before (the thin plates) which were replaced with thick plates. Guess that was the problem with the clutch action as it worked great in the WV mountains. Doesn't really make sense as the problem, but it's fixed.
I would swear that the timing change of that stretched timing chain had sapped some life out of her. She's running like a raped ape. Took it to H-M and had a heck of a good time. Rode Thursday afternoon, Friday, and Saturday on 3 different trail systems. Man that place is awesome!
I can't say enough for the engineers at Cannondale for building this awesome machine in such a short period. She was rode hard and took everything asking for more!! It's all cleaned up sitting in the garage asking for another round! Dang ATV riding is fun!!!!!
, but yes those kits from Magura do come with stuff for bleeding the Hymec "Jack" also!