I admit I haven't put any effort into solving this yet, but my time is limited so it would be nice to get straight to fixing it instead of figuring out the problem. It's still working, but as you let out, instead of coming on very gradually with a slow release, it grabs very hard. Once the lever is out, it's not slipping. Just a VERY hard engagement initially. Hope that makes sense.
Also have to admit I haven't done anything to the hydraulics in, uhh, a few years, so I am planning to start there with fresh Blood/bleeding. I figure my next step is to pull pull the cover and check the plates. Tabs were fine last time I looked at them, maybe 20 hrs ago.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Clutch Acting Up
[attachment=12566:0408131224.jpg]So, the clutch plates are fine- no tab damage and still within spec. My only thought going that route was that if half of them were beat hard, maybe... But that's really never been seen. Wear on the plates probably wouldn't cause the problem I'm having, but it was something to look at.
The hydro seems to be working fine against hand pressure- in and out smooth as silk. A boat load of spring tension on it may cause it to act a little different, though. Still waiting on the blood for that.
Then it hit me- I bet polishing the cover would fix it!
The hydro seems to be working fine against hand pressure- in and out smooth as silk. A boat load of spring tension on it may cause it to act a little different, though. Still waiting on the blood for that.
Then it hit me- I bet polishing the cover would fix it!
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MX Quad Dad
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
MXQD- good try, but that isn't it. I checked the basket, no grooves. A little discolored is about it. Now that I'm thinking about it, I never really looked at the hub for grooves. I'll check it out.
Rally- thanks, that's the second one I've done. I'm lucky we have large buffing wheels at work and the whole deal only takes about 30 minutes between sanding and buffing. Did it during lunch yesterday. It's a good 10' part- little scratches still in it but after one ride and some boot rubbing, there will be more than one! Big parts of the black paint were gone off the other one, so no need to shine it up again. The oil filter cover shines like a gem, too! It lasts a bit longer than the clutch covers.
CDS- like your thinking! Got the pipe and header back on last night, should be able to run it around a little this evening and see if it gets better.
Rally- thanks, that's the second one I've done. I'm lucky we have large buffing wheels at work and the whole deal only takes about 30 minutes between sanding and buffing. Did it during lunch yesterday. It's a good 10' part- little scratches still in it but after one ride and some boot rubbing, there will be more than one! Big parts of the black paint were gone off the other one, so no need to shine it up again. The oil filter cover shines like a gem, too! It lasts a bit longer than the clutch covers.
CDS- like your thinking! Got the pipe and header back on last night, should be able to run it around a little this evening and see if it gets better.
Also, I got the Magura kit. I'm calling it a joke! First, it didn't have the tube in it, but not a big deal. However, going to use it leaves me scratching my head. Why does it include 2 bleeders with barbs on them, a couple flat washers, and an o-ring? Obviously enough, the barbs fit the smaller diameter tube it was supposed to come with (which would match the syringe size). They are about 1/2 the size of the bleeder on the slave.
My problem with the 2 bleeders is that if one of them did fit the slave (which it might, I didn't even check) there was no cap for the barbs when your done. Like that wouldn't pack full of mud! The stock bleeder has a cap on it. So I went with the stocker and stretched a piece of hose over it. Cracked the bleeder and filled the tube with oil from the master (which was green, not pink like the "blood), then attached the syringe without letting any air in the fill tube. Cleaned all the old fluid out of the master and the little bit of sludge out of the bottom. Then cracked the bleeder and started pushing in oil up to the master. I bet 1/3 of the syringe ended up down the motorcase as I knew it would- the threads are going to leak. But, it worked. I ended up bleeding a little from the top down as the master was a little too full.
In the end, imo, if your just doing a flush/refresh of your oil, using the regular old bleeding method of cracking and closing the bleeder as you squeeze the lever would work just fine- save your money on the kit and just buy the blood. If it was a new system or had been opened/emptied and prime lost on master, the bottom up method is the way to go. But again, save the money, go buy a large syringe locally.
Hopefully somebody can point out a step I missed that would add value to the kit, but as it is, I can't see using the bleeders that were provided.
Oh, and the clutch pull feels, well, about the same as it did with the old fluid- which was original with about 110 hours (per my hr meter).
My problem with the 2 bleeders is that if one of them did fit the slave (which it might, I didn't even check) there was no cap for the barbs when your done. Like that wouldn't pack full of mud! The stock bleeder has a cap on it. So I went with the stocker and stretched a piece of hose over it. Cracked the bleeder and filled the tube with oil from the master (which was green, not pink like the "blood), then attached the syringe without letting any air in the fill tube. Cleaned all the old fluid out of the master and the little bit of sludge out of the bottom. Then cracked the bleeder and started pushing in oil up to the master. I bet 1/3 of the syringe ended up down the motorcase as I knew it would- the threads are going to leak. But, it worked. I ended up bleeding a little from the top down as the master was a little too full.
In the end, imo, if your just doing a flush/refresh of your oil, using the regular old bleeding method of cracking and closing the bleeder as you squeeze the lever would work just fine- save your money on the kit and just buy the blood. If it was a new system or had been opened/emptied and prime lost on master, the bottom up method is the way to go. But again, save the money, go buy a large syringe locally.
Hopefully somebody can point out a step I missed that would add value to the kit, but as it is, I can't see using the bleeders that were provided.
Oh, and the clutch pull feels, well, about the same as it did with the old fluid- which was original with about 110 hours (per my hr meter).
QUOTE (NRath @ Apr 10 2013, 11:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Also, I got the Magura kit. I'm calling it a joke! First, it didn't have the tube in it, but not a big deal. However, going to use it leaves me scratching my head. Why does it include 2 bleeders with barbs on them, a couple flat washers, and an o-ring? Obviously enough, the barbs fit the smaller diameter tube it was supposed to come with (which would match the syringe size). They are about 1/2 the size of the bleeder on the slave.
My problem with the 2 bleeders is that if one of them did fit the slave (which it might, I didn't even check) there was no cap for the barbs when your done. Like that wouldn't pack full of mud! The stock bleeder has a cap on it. So I went with the stocker and stretched a piece of hose over it. Cracked the bleeder and filled the tube with oil from the master (which was green, not pink like the "blood), then attached the syringe without letting any air in the fill tube. Cleaned all the old fluid out of the master and the little bit of sludge out of the bottom. Then cracked the bleeder and started pushing in oil up to the master. I bet 1/3 of the syringe ended up down the motorcase as I knew it would- the threads are going to leak. But, it worked. I ended up bleeding a little from the top down as the master was a little too full.
In the end, imo, if your just doing a flush/refresh of your oil, using the regular old bleeding method of cracking and closing the bleeder as you squeeze the lever would work just fine- save your money on the kit and just buy the blood. If it was a new system or had been opened/emptied and prime lost on master, the bottom up method is the way to go. But again, save the money, go buy a large syringe locally.
Hopefully somebody can point out a step I missed that would add value to the kit, but as it is, I can't see using the bleeders that were provided.
Oh, and the clutch pull feels, well, about the same as it did with the old fluid- which was original with about 110 hours (per my hr meter).
My problem with the 2 bleeders is that if one of them did fit the slave (which it might, I didn't even check) there was no cap for the barbs when your done. Like that wouldn't pack full of mud! The stock bleeder has a cap on it. So I went with the stocker and stretched a piece of hose over it. Cracked the bleeder and filled the tube with oil from the master (which was green, not pink like the "blood), then attached the syringe without letting any air in the fill tube. Cleaned all the old fluid out of the master and the little bit of sludge out of the bottom. Then cracked the bleeder and started pushing in oil up to the master. I bet 1/3 of the syringe ended up down the motorcase as I knew it would- the threads are going to leak. But, it worked. I ended up bleeding a little from the top down as the master was a little too full.
In the end, imo, if your just doing a flush/refresh of your oil, using the regular old bleeding method of cracking and closing the bleeder as you squeeze the lever would work just fine- save your money on the kit and just buy the blood. If it was a new system or had been opened/emptied and prime lost on master, the bottom up method is the way to go. But again, save the money, go buy a large syringe locally.
Hopefully somebody can point out a step I missed that would add value to the kit, but as it is, I can't see using the bleeders that were provided.
Oh, and the clutch pull feels, well, about the same as it did with the old fluid- which was original with about 110 hours (per my hr meter).
Nrath, Are you using a Magura Hymec "Jack" Hydraulic clutch conversion kit to convert cable operated pull to hydro pull?...or a C'Dale case that was a hydro equipt from the factory?
When mine do this, it doesn't feel like a hydraulic actuation issue, more like the clutch plates are slipping unevenly or almost like something in the drivetrain is skipping splines.
Without having spent any time checking into it mechanically, I am inclined to think that over time the trans fluid drains and presses out of the clutch fibers and they are perhaps more "grippy" at the top than at the bottom where they were still bathing in fluid during storage. Then, at startup, the clutch feels grabby until it warms up and the fluid works back into the clutch pack evenly.
Without having spent any time checking into it mechanically, I am inclined to think that over time the trans fluid drains and presses out of the clutch fibers and they are perhaps more "grippy" at the top than at the bottom where they were still bathing in fluid during storage. Then, at startup, the clutch feels grabby until it warms up and the fluid works back into the clutch pack evenly.
QUOTE (promod @ Apr 10 2013, 01:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nrath, Are you using a Magura Hymec "Jack" Hydraulic clutch conversion kit to convert cable operated pull to hydro pull?...or a C'Dale case that was a hydro equipt from the factory?
No, he is talking about a kit that Magura makes to bleed the slave cylinder. Comes with Magura blood and some strange bleeders that are probably for the jack you are referring to.