I got a x440s that I'm going to rebuild
Was wondering if there is any thing to do different that's not in the manual
I have the aluminum valve cover already and the auto bleeder
Was also wondering what size are the shims are for the valves ?
X440S head questions
Things to add I check during a inspection is .
Check for good oil flow and spray direction on front cam oil squirters. I have found some plugged or not drilled through all the way.
Remove valves and seals and install cams to be sure the cam bearings roll free with no binding. This checks to be sure cam caps are not distorted from over torquing.
Torque cams caps 2 foot pounds less than stock specs to prevent cap distorsion.
Check the bucket bores by installing dry buckets in dry bores in an empty cyllinder head. They should slide out by gravity when tipped upside down.
Check for flatness and liner grooves on the surface of the head. Lap or machine if needed. If this is performed piston to valve clearance and cam degreeing must be done.
Pressure test for leaks if head is ported or had seats repaired.
Make sure valve seats are not loose.
Measure and adjust valve spring installed height pressures. New or used springs. To check new springs they muct be cycled about ten times before pressure testing. Any spring less than 35 foot pounds should not be shimmed.
Replace the gold colored valve spring locks and tall retainers with the silver titanium retainers with the short locks.
If cams are the older style with numbers stamped on or have a narrow base circle they and show no signs of wear they should be fine. If they are the solid width lobe type they should be nitrided or not used (most have just 2 cam timing pin holes). Most of those have not been heat treated properly and don't last very long. If they have substantial hours on the cams with no signs of wear then I would go ahead and reuse them.
Good valve buckets have a chrome plating (gold coating on inside) or get bucket with dlc or nitride coating for maximum life. Buckets with obvious coarse machine marks have not been finish polished or heat treated. New or used does not matter.
Run zddp addatives in the oil for cam protection.
Check cranking compression to be sure decomp mechanism is funtioning properly and valves, rings are not leaking. Engines will not start below 50psi. 70 to 90 psi should be the target goal.
Make sure cam seals are riding on the cam gear surface during installation. Some newer seals have to much offset on the lips.
Optional for some but mandatory for me is a complete maximun port job to maintain respectable power level.
Cam degree timing should be checked as variances in alignment holes machined into the cams can cause the timing to be way out of spec and cause serious power loss.
Check for good oil flow and spray direction on front cam oil squirters. I have found some plugged or not drilled through all the way.
Remove valves and seals and install cams to be sure the cam bearings roll free with no binding. This checks to be sure cam caps are not distorted from over torquing.
Torque cams caps 2 foot pounds less than stock specs to prevent cap distorsion.
Check the bucket bores by installing dry buckets in dry bores in an empty cyllinder head. They should slide out by gravity when tipped upside down.
Check for flatness and liner grooves on the surface of the head. Lap or machine if needed. If this is performed piston to valve clearance and cam degreeing must be done.
Pressure test for leaks if head is ported or had seats repaired.
Make sure valve seats are not loose.
Measure and adjust valve spring installed height pressures. New or used springs. To check new springs they muct be cycled about ten times before pressure testing. Any spring less than 35 foot pounds should not be shimmed.
Replace the gold colored valve spring locks and tall retainers with the silver titanium retainers with the short locks.
If cams are the older style with numbers stamped on or have a narrow base circle they and show no signs of wear they should be fine. If they are the solid width lobe type they should be nitrided or not used (most have just 2 cam timing pin holes). Most of those have not been heat treated properly and don't last very long. If they have substantial hours on the cams with no signs of wear then I would go ahead and reuse them.
Good valve buckets have a chrome plating (gold coating on inside) or get bucket with dlc or nitride coating for maximum life. Buckets with obvious coarse machine marks have not been finish polished or heat treated. New or used does not matter.
Run zddp addatives in the oil for cam protection.
Check cranking compression to be sure decomp mechanism is funtioning properly and valves, rings are not leaking. Engines will not start below 50psi. 70 to 90 psi should be the target goal.
Make sure cam seals are riding on the cam gear surface during installation. Some newer seals have to much offset on the lips.
Optional for some but mandatory for me is a complete maximun port job to maintain respectable power level.
Cam degree timing should be checked as variances in alignment holes machined into the cams can cause the timing to be way out of spec and cause serious power loss.
QUOTE (kdeal @ Sep 14 2013, 09:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Along with a few other things we steal from the Suzuki Z400, the shims are the same as well. You can buy a kit or just measure with what you have and go to the local dealer and buy what you need. Don't forget to check the decomp mechanism for lots of play while you are in the head.
SO IF I GUESS RIGHT THERE THE SAME ONES AS MY DRZ400
WHAT OIL DO YOU GUYS RUN?
AND WHAT ABOUT BREAK IN HOW LONG ON THE FIRST OIL CHANGE?
I use motul break in oil for a couple of short heat cycles and maybe one short ride varying the speed and load and then I change it to rotella 5w40 synthetic available from walmart and use it like I normally ride. This in my opinion the most cost effective bang for the buck oil you can get. You could even run it in the trans too but I use bel ray gear saver 80wt in the trans because I am cheap like that and like to keep an eye out for oil transfer. I used to run the redline shock proof light weight in the trans side and the only thing I have to say about that stuff is that it is expensive and motor tear downs and cleanings are harder.
Just before you put the valve cover on use a good high sulfer high pressure cam lube for solid tappet motors and lube up the cam and bucket trays real good and you should be fine.
The epa or whatever has limited the amount of zzp additive in everyday automotive motor oils and some have experienced early cam failure with new builds of vintage solid tappet autos and cam on bucket motors. They did this because of pressure from the automakers having to replace converters before the five year emissions warranty and that was one of those unintended consequences.
Some will say to run expensive dlc coated buckets and I dont have anything against that but it is expensive and I have yet to personally wear out a cam and bucket set on any of the motors I have built using the above techniques.
Just before you put the valve cover on use a good high sulfer high pressure cam lube for solid tappet motors and lube up the cam and bucket trays real good and you should be fine.
The epa or whatever has limited the amount of zzp additive in everyday automotive motor oils and some have experienced early cam failure with new builds of vintage solid tappet autos and cam on bucket motors. They did this because of pressure from the automakers having to replace converters before the five year emissions warranty and that was one of those unintended consequences.
Some will say to run expensive dlc coated buckets and I dont have anything against that but it is expensive and I have yet to personally wear out a cam and bucket set on any of the motors I have built using the above techniques.
Cam shims are 9.48mm. Very common.
Rayspeed has very good points. As far as cam buckets I have started using the coated ones just because the supply of good stock buckets dried up and I can get coated ones for nearly what the expensive suzuki buckets cost.
As far as break in it is mostly done before you even get to put the machine in gear. I change the oil after half hour and every ten hours after that. I run the cheapest synthetic with addative. Ive not had cam wear issues on the normal race engines I build just an experimental one with an uncoated 03 exhaust cam with 03 buckets. It also had a see through valve cover and we could watch the cams wear on the dyno . By the time we finished the cam was shot.
Rayspeed has very good points. As far as cam buckets I have started using the coated ones just because the supply of good stock buckets dried up and I can get coated ones for nearly what the expensive suzuki buckets cost.
As far as break in it is mostly done before you even get to put the machine in gear. I change the oil after half hour and every ten hours after that. I run the cheapest synthetic with addative. Ive not had cam wear issues on the normal race engines I build just an experimental one with an uncoated 03 exhaust cam with 03 buckets. It also had a see through valve cover and we could watch the cams wear on the dyno . By the time we finished the cam was shot.