2003 cannibal cranks but won't fire...
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Jasonboz56
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
So I scored a 2003 cannibal for $500. It supposedly only needed a battery a fuse and a fuel pump. Well that's all done and it cranks but won't fire. Spark is good. Gas and battery are good. Plug seemed slightly wet but barely. My fuel filter has bubbles in it when cranking then drains mostly empty when not being cranked. Any advice? I have spark and good gas and battery but it just won't fire? I'm wondering if I have an air leak in the fuel lines but there's good fuel flow in the gas tank when cranking. The pump definitely primes but my plug doesn't get very wet and it doesn't really fire at all... My only thoughts are maybe the injectors from sitting if it's not the fuel lines... Any help would sure be appreciated. I'm in Vegas if anybody's local to help or go riding when I get it sorted...
I have seen several times that the injectors wouldn't fire correctly on quads wich haven't been started in a while.
I made a connector that plugs onto a injector with 2 long wires on it and give it a direct 12v puls from the battery.
Just hold one wire on the + from the battery and then tap the other wire a few times on the ground. This will make the injector click a
few times and it wil open up and fire.
This trick worked every time for me.
I made a connector that plugs onto a injector with 2 long wires on it and give it a direct 12v puls from the battery.
Just hold one wire on the + from the battery and then tap the other wire a few times on the ground. This will make the injector click a
few times and it wil open up and fire.
This trick worked every time for me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxVe_SSmZas
If it doesnt do like in the video you may have.
Wired the fuel pump backwards,piped the fuel regulator backwards,have a torn external oring in your quick connect(it wont leak by the way unless the tank is full to the top) you better have your quick connects gutted already if not do it before continuing.
I have seen on occasion a fuel pump that wont prime due to air in the injector line. Cracking open the banjo nut on top the fuel pump and relieve the air pressure and tapping the starter to run the pump for a second will purge the air lock. Make sure you dont make any sparks while doing this procedure or you have to buy a new house ,garage, ect.
If it doesnt do like in the video you may have.
Wired the fuel pump backwards,piped the fuel regulator backwards,have a torn external oring in your quick connect(it wont leak by the way unless the tank is full to the top) you better have your quick connects gutted already if not do it before continuing.
I have seen on occasion a fuel pump that wont prime due to air in the injector line. Cracking open the banjo nut on top the fuel pump and relieve the air pressure and tapping the starter to run the pump for a second will purge the air lock. Make sure you dont make any sparks while doing this procedure or you have to buy a new house ,garage, ect.
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Jasonboz56
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (Wistech @ Oct 21 2013, 07:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxVe_SSmZas
If it doesnt do like in the video you may have.
Wired the fuel pump backwards,piped the fuel regulator backwards,have a torn external oring in your quick connect(it wont leak by the way unless the tank is full to the top) you better have your quick connects gutted already if not do it before continuing.
I have seen on occasion a fuel pump that wont prime due to air in the injector line. Cracking open the banjo nut on top the fuel pump and relieve the air pressure and tapping the starter to run the pump for a second will purge the air lock. Make sure you dont make any sparks while doing this procedure or you have to buy a new house ,garage, ect.
If it doesnt do like in the video you may have.
Wired the fuel pump backwards,piped the fuel regulator backwards,have a torn external oring in your quick connect(it wont leak by the way unless the tank is full to the top) you better have your quick connects gutted already if not do it before continuing.
I have seen on occasion a fuel pump that wont prime due to air in the injector line. Cracking open the banjo nut on top the fuel pump and relieve the air pressure and tapping the starter to run the pump for a second will purge the air lock. Make sure you dont make any sparks while doing this procedure or you have to buy a new house ,garage, ect.
I've never used a compression tester before but I bought one and tried it out and I'm only showing 35 lbs so I'm guessing unless I didn't use the tester correctly that the motor is bad so I guess I'll try to sell it and buy one running. I didn't check the injectors or flywheel because if there's no compression... If I'm missing something advice would be great otherwise Anybody want a 2003 cannibal with title that's super clean except the plastics and seat? I'm in it $600 I'd like to at least break even or trade it for something running in Vegas. Ideally I'd like to add a little cash and trade for another dale but my budget is limited... Thanks for all your help guys! I've had a few dales and love them! Even though I've only ever gotten to ride one of them I'm not giving up! After I sold my great running non updated stock speed out of newbie fear and bought a 2010 polaris outlaw 450 mxr and it sucked compared to my old dale so I sold it and have been on a dale hunt every since! Bought two non runners and haven't had any luck but I'm not giving up on a budget dale!
I assume you want to keep the plastic because you like it and want to use it on the one you would buy so you would take one without plastic? I am in Tucson which is about an eight hour drive but I have one deal I could make you right now and a couple of others options depending on how much of a hurry you are in.
I have an 02 speed with a mild ported 432 open air filter and boomers fuel flow kit on it fully updated that is just broken in with maybe four hours of dune riding on it. Its a good runner and starts right up every time and the only minor issue I can see on it is that at one time a different cradle was rubbing on the bottom of the case and a single drop or two of oil comes out of it every day. I would sell it outright for probably $1250 and I am really not looking for one to take its place but I might be willing to give you credit for yours depending on the wear items like the chain, ball joints and tires etc... like around $500 or so. I might be able to give you more if you want to stick with those arvin shocks and I keep the the plastic and seat so we are talking a minimum of $500 to a maximum of $750 out or pocket for you which is a heck of a deal for a new motor. I had timbo go thru the crank and head which cost almost that by itself.... much less the porting and updates.
If you can give me some time I can get this blaze up and running right for probably a similar deal maybe less if I keep the ti exhaust and I will put a toaster or a fmf can on it. http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...c=26553&hl= the map select is already taken off of it and sold. This is a champion built 460 that has maybe ten hours on it and the build cost over 2k. I seem to be having major issues with my laptop that I use for tuning and have not been able to do a throttle cal on it yet... otherwise it starts but will not take any throttle right now.
If you let me keep the plastic and seat would make you an even better deal.
Another quick option is we could swap that motor in out of the blaze and I could tear down your motor right in front of you and we could see what is wrong with it and work out a fair credit for you core depending on what is wrong with it. I could also build you a motor and we could do the same thing however I would need a couple of months to have that ready.
I have an 02 speed with a mild ported 432 open air filter and boomers fuel flow kit on it fully updated that is just broken in with maybe four hours of dune riding on it. Its a good runner and starts right up every time and the only minor issue I can see on it is that at one time a different cradle was rubbing on the bottom of the case and a single drop or two of oil comes out of it every day. I would sell it outright for probably $1250 and I am really not looking for one to take its place but I might be willing to give you credit for yours depending on the wear items like the chain, ball joints and tires etc... like around $500 or so. I might be able to give you more if you want to stick with those arvin shocks and I keep the the plastic and seat so we are talking a minimum of $500 to a maximum of $750 out or pocket for you which is a heck of a deal for a new motor. I had timbo go thru the crank and head which cost almost that by itself.... much less the porting and updates.
If you can give me some time I can get this blaze up and running right for probably a similar deal maybe less if I keep the ti exhaust and I will put a toaster or a fmf can on it. http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...c=26553&hl= the map select is already taken off of it and sold. This is a champion built 460 that has maybe ten hours on it and the build cost over 2k. I seem to be having major issues with my laptop that I use for tuning and have not been able to do a throttle cal on it yet... otherwise it starts but will not take any throttle right now.
If you let me keep the plastic and seat would make you an even better deal.
Another quick option is we could swap that motor in out of the blaze and I could tear down your motor right in front of you and we could see what is wrong with it and work out a fair credit for you core depending on what is wrong with it. I could also build you a motor and we could do the same thing however I would need a couple of months to have that ready.
If you can give me some time I can get this blaze up and running right for probably a similar deal maybe less if I keep the ti exhaust and I will put a toaster or a fmf can on it. http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...c=26553&hl= the map select is already taken off of it and sold. This is a champion built 460 that has maybe ten hours on it and the build cost over 2k. I seem to be having major issues with my laptop that I use for tuning and have not been able to do a throttle cal on it yet... otherwise it starts but will not take any throttle right now.
If you let me keep the plastic and seat would make you an even better deal.
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not to steal jasons thunder here but can you explain ray what champion built means? like is there any upgrades done to the engine, sorry for the newbie question btw.
If you let me keep the plastic and seat would make you an even better deal.
[/quote]
not to steal jasons thunder here but can you explain ray what champion built means? like is there any upgrades done to the engine, sorry for the newbie question btw.
QUOTE (2smoker @ Nov 10 2013, 03:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you can give me some time I can get this blaze up and running right for probably a similar deal maybe less if I keep the ti exhaust and I will put a toaster or a fmf can on it. http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...c=26553&hl= the map select is already taken off of it and sold. This is a champion built 460 that has maybe ten hours on it and the build cost over 2k. I seem to be having major issues with my laptop that I use for tuning and have not been able to do a throttle cal on it yet... otherwise it starts but will not take any throttle right now.
If you let me keep the plastic and seat would make you an even better deal.
not to steal jasons thunder here but can you explain ray what champion built means? like is there any upgrades done to the engine, sorry for the newbie question btw.
If you let me keep the plastic and seat would make you an even better deal.
not to steal jasons thunder here but can you explain ray what champion built means? like is there any upgrades done to the engine, sorry for the newbie question btw.
Champion motorsports was one of very few professional engine builders that somewhat specialized in cannondale engines for at least a time where you could send a motor for a performance build. I am sure they have probably moved on to other things to survive by now. They were not cheap but I never heard anything negative on here about their work. Use the search feature and I am sure you would learn more. This motor was done circa 2008 so I would assume that it has all of the updates known at the time.
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Jasonboz56
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (rayspeed @ Nov 10 2013, 08:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Champion motorsports was one of very few professional engine builders that somewhat specialized in cannondale engines for at least a time where you could send a motor for a performance build. I am sure they have probably moved on to other things to survive by now. They were not cheap but I never heard anything negative on here about their work. Use the search feature and I am sure you would learn more. This motor was done circa 2008 so I would assume that it has all of the updates known at the time.
Rayspeed, I'm very interested and leaving town for three weeks. I'll get ahold of you the first week of dec to see if there's anything we can get together on. And as always thanks so much to everybody on the forum
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Jasonboz56
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (Jasonboz56 @ Nov 10 2013, 09:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Rayspeed, I'm very interested and leaving town for three weeks. I'll get ahold of you the first week of dec to see if there's anything we can get together on. And as always thanks so much to everybody on the forum
Just got back to town and like your ideas of trades with some cash on my end. I really don't want a toaster muffler but would be happy with anything else. I also don't mind a small leak as long as it's a dependable dale I can keep the oil full. Also budget is very tight so I'd be happy to keep the lesser of plastics and seats weather that be mine or not. I'd like to trade mine with title for a running one no matter how ugly cause I just wanna ride. I'd also like to add only $300 cash if possible and I live in Vegas. I realize this probably isn't possible so I'm gonna start trying to fix it again myself this week and if fail or I can't get a dale I'll settle for the Mojave trade :-( then try to buy another running dale when my budget is better :-)