Falicon 66mm stroker questions.

Engine, intake, exhaust, EFI, chain, sprockets, etc.
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wistech
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#1 Post by wistech »

So I took this extra engine apart that lost all of its Nikasil liner and eroded the piston. Turns out it has a 66mm falicon stroker crank in it. I cut the welds and carefully pressed the crank apart and was shocked that the rod bearing had not been destroyed . It even has the yfz crank pin which has the oil feed hole right on the edge of the roller bearing path as well as being in the high force area of the pin . Since wont have much money invested I will be installing a correct made pin . The flywheel side bearing race mount instead of being machined to big was machined to small so the race just slides right off just like the left side. Im thinking this would be a perfect candidate for a test engine. With a 98mm piston I figure this should be a 498cc engine. I repaired my 505 stroker case so this could be a fun one to abuse and not care about like the good old days. So my question is has anyone any experience with the 66mm stroker holding up after updating? Any loose bearing race issues? I was thinking using sleeve retainer to take up the clearance or just say the heck with it and run it loose.

kdeal
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#2 Post by kdeal »

John,

Don't assume that the TDC hole is at actual TDC. Mine was off several degrees. Mine ate the flywheel side bearing pretty quickly. Have your guy check the balance as well.

Ken

wistech
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#3 Post by wistech »

Yes there a bunch of things to check. The drive splines seem tight, the balance is good because this engine still ran. If the TDC is out we will have to use an offset flywheel key or change the map timing to compensate. Good catch Ken I never heard of those being messed up as well. I checked the rod length and it does have the correct rod in it. Just out of curiousity what were the 6.6mm cranks selling for. I doubt anyone ponied up $2600 for just the crank and piston kit. Weren't falicons like $1200?

dunnbandit1
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#4 Post by dunnbandit1 »

I have a Falicon in my Cannibal. I think they were $800 for us who got one from the first batch from Jaybr. I have not had any problems with the crank. (I did have to replace the head because mice packed stuff up the exhaust and into the valves) I also had a JE piston in that engine originally, but now has a Wiseco piston.

kdeal
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#5 Post by kdeal »

John,

ATK sold most of those cranks as add ons to their so-called "new" ATKs.... So it would not surprise me if the price is right. Worth to me is whatever you can get for them. Make sure you measure the stroke carefully because they are not the same size as Tim's big strokers. Use one of your 460 kits with a shaved down piston dome for a heck of a monster! On the TDC, just add the difference to your timing wheel and you will be fine. No need for special anything. Mine was off 4 degrees. I set the timing wheel to the timing mark at plus 4 degrees, pulled the bolt out and set my timing from there. You just need to know the difference up front. Use a long dial indicator extension into the spark plug hole to the piston. Do a before and after TDC read and divide by 2 to get the true TDC. Once the difference is known easy to compensate for it.

Jason,

You have the earlier 2.2mm stroker crank. That is a completely different crank. Yours was the original (mine too, as I got one out of the first batch as well). The crank John is asking about is way bigger. I think it was made at the request of ATK to compete with the bigger motors Timbo and John were making at the time.

wistech
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#6 Post by wistech »

For sure Ill be checking deck protrusion as well as claying the head. I think they shortened the rod more to compensate for the even longer stroke but as we know it could be all sorts of wrong on rod length.

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