New to Cannondale, need suggestions.

[protraxrptr17]

I posted a similar thread on another forum but it ain't real active. I traded a 400EX for an '02 ?Cannibal? with a supposed bad crank yesterday. What should I do for a crank if that is really what went bad? Seems as though that is the million dollar question. How do I know what updates need to be done? The owner said the stage 8 had been done. Where would I get a download of the chassis manual? What special tools do I need to tear this engine down? Now, the owner said that the engine seized on him at high RPM. I decided to do some checking because he also told me he had problems with bolts backing out. If a bolt had fallen out and gotten wedged in some gears or something I should be able to turn the engine backwards to free it. I removed the flywheel cover and used a socket and breakover bar to try to turn the engine clockwise. I didn't put much pressure but it wouldn't turn. I tried counter clockwise. It tuned pretty easy. I tried clockwise again and it started turning easier and easier. I decided to try and start it. It would nearly run and then drag and try to run again. Is there a chance it isn't the crank? I removed the clutch cover to see if maybe the timing chain was real loose or something. It was real tight. The engine didn't knock loud when I tried to start it. It did have some noise but it wasn't worse than any other Cannondale I've heard. Is there anything else I can check before I take the engine out and tear it down? I have the engine manual, but what special tools are NECESSARY to work on this engine and where do I get them. Where should I get my engine parts, such as pistons, sleeves, gaskets, valves, timing chains and the like? I am really excited about working on this complex machine. Thanks for the help and you'll be seeing alot of me in the future because this thing is totally differnt from anything I've ever worked on.

[CdaleRacer0128]

wow an enthusiastic member of our great breed!! welcome welcome read around and think of things.. it looks like you are definately on the right track. it turns over? it may be the crank still but you better ask someone a little more knowledgable ( maybe cannondale27)

mine would turn over then stop at the top of the piston's stroke due to a dropped valve, this was at high rpm. Pull your oil filter and see if theres any brass droppings in there. a little tiny bit of silver metal flakes isn't bad..but brass ones are.

you can call up a few people to get pistons:

Haydug Cycles - he's the site sponsor! im not sure who's pistons he uses though
Champion motorsports - Scott there - 814-929-5332 uses WWE pistons and parts..very high quality stuff..

good luck on all your future endeavors on this machine man!
:cool:

[cdrookie]

you really shouldn't need any special tools to work on them. might have to modify a wrench or screwdriver to get to some difficult bolts or clamps. we'll see how long your enthuasm lasts. stop trying to get that motor to turn over! might be doing more harm. the crank issue is touchy these days. call haydug and see what he recommends and he should have the parts you need. welcome to the site and keep us informed!

[NRath]

First of all, :welcome: !!!

I agree with Rook, stop playing with it and drop the engine. Unfortunately, for anything that's possibly causing what your describing, it's got to come out. It sounds to me like possibly the crank bearings. It's unlikely it's a cartridge plate bolt or it would spin fairly freely, then you'd feel something catch and lock it up. But for any of those, the sidecover has to come off at the least. The problem will be obvious once you start into it.

As for special tools, there is one wrench you'll need for torquing the head. Motion Pro sells them. I'll see if I can't hunt up a number for you. That's really about it. A plate for pressing the sleeve in is nice, but not required. Other than that, some snap-ring pliers, and torque wrenches, your in business! Don't forget the Loctite!

All the manuals are on the Cannondaleriders home page in the technical section. Everything you'll need is there. These really aren't all that complicated, either!!! With a little time in the garage, you'll have it running again! Let us know what you find.

[protraxrptr17]

Thanks fellers. I just turned it over a few times too see if there actually was a catasrophic failure as I was told. Do I need a flywheel puller? Or is there a secret method to make it release? I think it will be a few weeks before I get to tear into it. I have another quad in my shop getting a full restoration and I have to get it finished first. It's going to be a tough wait. Also, do you think they couldve used bolts with smaller heads on those covers?! Are the bolts on this thing metric or standard or mixed?

[protraxrptr17]

I checked the tech section and didn't find the chassis manual. I'm looking for the one that includes dropping the engine.

[haydug]

Welcome!! :welcome:

First off, don't be afraid of tearing it down!! I would recommend taking pictures of the teardown for future reference. Also, another step maybe to label some ziplock bags and put your screws in them (ex. side cover bolt in one bag, valve cover bolts in one bag, etc. etc.).
These motors are not overly complicated, but they are more so than some other motors I have dealt with.
By listening to your symptons, I would bet you your crank is bad, actually lower rod bearing is my guess. So, out comes the engine!!
Let me know if I can help in any way, also, keep parts in stock and should have everything you need.

[bd126]

It has the Stage8 Cartridge plate update, motor mount update, and oil line update. Those are the only ones I know of for sure, but I think they were the most important.

Brad

[NRath]

There is no manual to tell about pulling the engine. There is a table of torque specs in the back of the owner's manual that covers all the bolts you'll remove during the process.

[speed2424]

To drop the motor you will need a special socket to get the exhaust off.I believe it is a 8 mm - 12 point socket. It must be a 12 point, 1/4 drive would be better. A 3/8 drive is a little tight, but will work. Also a universal joint with extensions or the type of extensions that have the ball on the end that lets you swivel them. And the bolts are all metric.