Cannondaleriders

Since I have put together back my engine I have had a grinding sound comming from the area where the clutch is located. I only get this grinding noise when I am releasing my clutch.

When I did my stud update I did take out the clutch so I could get to some of the bolts. Now I did put everything back together including ballbearing...

When I took the clutch plates out to inspect (was told to look at the bearing and that was ok) I found that the last metal plate looked like it was rubbing the pressure plate. I also notice that the clutch plates did not have lots of trans fluid between them, they looked kinda dry but not completely. So my thoughts are that the last clutch plate keeps following off when the clutch is engaged causing it to rub against the pressure plate.

Has anyone seen this before? Any suggestions?

I have a hydraulic clutch, bleeded the cluch line as instructed

What is the proper way to adjust the clutch relase collar?

What keeps the plates oiled with tran fluid?

In the end I have never had a hydraulic clutch so I don't know much about adjusting.

Mine would make a grinding noise when I was letting it out but it would go away after a few minutes of riding, don't know if thats normal or not.:confused:

How many plates should your clutch have? and the last plate that goes on, which is metal.... soppost to be flush with the end of the basket. When the clutch is engaged won't that last plate (the last plate that put on metal plate) be pushed out of the basket out of the groves??

I think they have 8 friction and 9 steel, Its been a while since I had mine apart and don't remember if it was flush or not.

in the middle of the clutch relase collar there is a nut with a set screw in the middle... now I know that the manual states to loosen up the nut then full turn the set screw in and back out 3 full turns. However when I do this and test it out, when the clutch is fully engaged the bike still rolls forward. So that tells me that the set screw is out to far, so I guess I am just going to have to start and adjusting that set screw in a little at a time. Perhaps the grinding noise that I hear is drying plates because the clutch relase collar is not opening enough to get the plates free and oil into them..... am I on the correct path of thinking here?????

Sounds like your on the right path

I've always turned the set screw in all the way then backed out 3 turns and it's worked fine.

it does sound like you have an adjustment issue though.

and yes, the steel plate will be very close to flush with the end of the basket.

Ok so here is a pic of the basket, see the edge that I was talking about

This is what the collar looked like once when I removed the last plate, I think this might be normal

im not an expert like some of the other people in this forum, but i dont think thats normal. if you have good lubrication in the trasmission area than there should be some amount of fluid between the basket case and the fiber pads. it almost looks like the fiber stuck too the case.

First and last plate should be steel.
Thick fibers used 8 fibers and 9 steels.
Thin fibers used 9 fibers and 10 steels.
When adjusting the clutch loosen up nut and screw set screw in all the way.This means you will be forcing the hydro clutch back into housing so you will feel resistance.Once it bottoms out back it off 3 turns.
A snap ring pliers can be used to hold the ring to keep it from turning when tightening the lock nut on set screw.

Could be you misunderstood on the adjustment and only went in with set screw till resistance was felt.Needs to bottom out.