Blown Motor: What oil where you runnin?

Engine, intake, exhaust, EFI, chain, sprockets, etc.
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cannondale440
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Blown Motor: What oil where you runnin?

#1 Post by cannondale440 »

What happened to your motor?

cdalemx301
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#2 Post by cdalemx301 »

my motor hasnt blown but you should add an other option to that because some people may not be running any of those

cannondale440
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#3 Post by cannondale440 »

Well do you have any suggestions then? I will edit to suite everybodies needs.

NRath
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#4 Post by NRath »

I'm all for seeing where this goes, but I think you should be more specific in what your asking for.

"Blown" is very vague. I don't believe there is a definition for "blown". Many "blown" engines result from overheating/cooling system failures. What specific mechanical problem are you trying to tie to the oil? Rod/crank bearings, valvetrain, rings/piston/sleeve? You could say crank failures, but the cranks don't actually fail. The bearings supporting them do.

For the results to be beneficial, we need more specifics.

cannondale440
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#5 Post by cannondale440 »

Well I'm not really tring to get to specific. Different motors fail for different reasons, Im just tryin to get an idea of what engine oil people ran when engine went south.

Blown motor? Is that hard to comprehend? U should know what I mean.

Maybe a moderator could add a miscelanous to the list of oils? I didnt know I couldnt edit a polls choices.

Happyboy
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#6 Post by Happyboy »

But these is no correlation to the oil that was run when they lost their coolant. What about when the pin on the decompression lever breaks? Not oil related. In order for this to be usefull we need to look at specific instances and see if a better oil would have helped out. NRATH wasn't trying to bust your balls, just trying to help get good info out of the poll.

Psychosis
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#7 Post by Psychosis »

My first crank let go using Mobil but I am tearing it down before it happens again due to shavings in oil filter. Been running Motul in it.

cannondale440
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#8 Post by cannondale440 »

i just started my tear down due to the same thing "shavings". Seems i had alittle bit of corrosion behind my water impeller. I think i have the good valve cover but seems like some plate directly behind the impeller got corroded. I got a couple of pictures ill post so forgive me if this is not the proper place to post them. Im exited about my first engine rebuild!!

cannondale440
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#9 Post by cannondale440 »

one more

azcannibal
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#10 Post by azcannibal »

FACT: You can use all of the above oils each time you do an oil change just add 1 ounce to each quart with the product below like I do. Even though we all starve our lower rod bearing over 9k rpms. With this oil fortifier you'll never see metal to metal friction wear. Yes, over 9k rpms most of our oil is being forced out of the left side hole going to the left main bearing and not to the center of the cranks rod bearing. It's a proven fact!
I am not selling anything here just trying to enlighten you all on what I have learned.

The site below can tell you where the nearest dealer is in your area. They can test any oil you bring to them for HEAT/FRICTION/CONTAMINATION. This oil fortifier is *ithc'in. Price = 33 oz's or Litre is around $50.00 U.S.

$50.00/1.75 oz's per engine oil change = $2.62 per oil change and about 18 oil changes per litre. Yes, the tranny is an excellent place too. I have had no clutch slippage. This product is a little lighter color than engine oil. There are no solid additives in it at all. No Shaking before you pour. This product is ran in TURBINE engines for extending the life on their bearings.

http://maryngroup.com/Product_Information/...r_Up/NNL690.htm

Check it out!

My testimony. My Sleeve cracked 5 mos. ago thru the deep exhaust ref. hole letting in engine ice into my crankcase while running. I tore it down to find no no wear marks on my main races or on my wrist pin. I do have a tendency to hit my rev limiter every time I ride. My rod rotates very smoothly on the crank and no discoloration from friction.

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