Motors back in but won't start
[QUOTE]Originally posted by MX Quad Dad
[B]This is my thoughts. You say it has spark and it is a fresh engine done by BW, so we assume the compression is good (hard to do a compression test on a engine with the decompression mech.) and you say you are getting fuel. That leaves two possible problems, Timming (ignition or valve) or to much fuel. you say the plug is wet when removed? I would remove the plug and diconnect the fuel pump and crank the engine over to get all the fuel out of the cylinder. Then replace the plug and try starting it without connecting the fuel pump. if it fires or not then hook up the pump. If that dosen't work I would then pull the flywheel and check the Keyway on the flywheel.
The saga continues.... I disconnected the fuel pump, pulled the plug, cranked and cleared the cylinder, put in a new plug and nothing. I spoke to Cord over at B/W and he suggested using starting fluid down the air box just in case the rings were stuck and it needed a little boost for it's first start....no luck but I got a small fire up the airhorn from the backfire. In fact I have a pretty consistent backfire with the throttle open. So I guess I will have to track down a flywheel puller and check that out next. Stay tuned...........
[B]This is my thoughts. You say it has spark and it is a fresh engine done by BW, so we assume the compression is good (hard to do a compression test on a engine with the decompression mech.) and you say you are getting fuel. That leaves two possible problems, Timming (ignition or valve) or to much fuel. you say the plug is wet when removed? I would remove the plug and diconnect the fuel pump and crank the engine over to get all the fuel out of the cylinder. Then replace the plug and try starting it without connecting the fuel pump. if it fires or not then hook up the pump. If that dosen't work I would then pull the flywheel and check the Keyway on the flywheel.
The saga continues.... I disconnected the fuel pump, pulled the plug, cranked and cleared the cylinder, put in a new plug and nothing. I spoke to Cord over at B/W and he suggested using starting fluid down the air box just in case the rings were stuck and it needed a little boost for it's first start....no luck but I got a small fire up the airhorn from the backfire. In fact I have a pretty consistent backfire with the throttle open. So I guess I will have to track down a flywheel puller and check that out next. Stay tuned...........
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I guess it is time to give up. I spoke to Cord @ B/W and I confirmed that the flywheel is in the proper position so he wants to have a look see at the motor for himself. So its back in the shipping container for my motor and a ride to Utah. Thanks for all the help guy! I learned a lot just troubleshooting with you.
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
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I know there is a way to check if the keyway is sheared without pulling the flywheel but I would pull it before I removed the engine (its a lot easier) just to be sure. Just makeing sure the key lines up with the "C" only tells you if the flywheel has spun, and you can't tell if the keyway is sheared unless you pull the flywheel.
Most crankshafts have the keyway in alinement with the lower rod jurnel(SP?). So if you use something through the sparkplug hole to determan when the piston is at TDC by rocking the engine over by hand (FLYWHEEL) the keyway should be strait up. Maybe someone will chime in who knows if the keyway is inline with the jurnel. If not I can go dig up my old crank tomarrow and see
Most crankshafts have the keyway in alinement with the lower rod jurnel(SP?). So if you use something through the sparkplug hole to determan when the piston is at TDC by rocking the engine over by hand (FLYWHEEL) the keyway should be strait up. Maybe someone will chime in who knows if the keyway is inline with the jurnel. If not I can go dig up my old crank tomarrow and see
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Hey I just noticed you are from MI. I have a sister that lives in Brighton. Thats just south of you isn't it? I will probubly be takeing some classes at the 324 training center in Howell. Maybe I can stop by and shoot the bull (8 hour classes and I stay at the Amera Host inn by the Tanger Outlet mall, and I can't just sit in the room for 16 hours.)
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Yep, the crank keyway is at 12 o'clock high, straight up at TDC.
Just use a probe (gently) through the sparkplug hole to ride the piston up and down to find TDC -- I have used a mini-blind plastic wand before (and got in trouble with the wife!)... good call MX. That's a great way to verify if the key is sheared.
Just use a probe (gently) through the sparkplug hole to ride the piston up and down to find TDC -- I have used a mini-blind plastic wand before (and got in trouble with the wife!)... good call MX. That's a great way to verify if the key is sheared.
mine will act like yours if i'm too lean in the winter. mine hates the northern Mi winters and can be a real ***** to start if it's under 40 deg and every 10 deg lower it gets even harder. the last time i ran mine a couple weeks ago i had my flow down to about 2100 on a 468 stroker engine. when mine is lean it will back fire when trying to start. i'm willing to bet it could be some tweaking of the setting and cleaning plugs in between every couple tries if you start on the rich side. what is your flow and offset that you are trying now?