with rebuild
Well, I'm rebuilding my engine, but haven't been working on it lately. Found out yesterday some of my friends and I might be going to Glamis next week, so I have to get this together. Any quick tips to remember? It's my first time rebuilding and any advice on how to build this engine reliably and to last for awhile would be greatly appreciated.
well, i'm actually replacing the one way bearing on the counterbalance spaft, which is is pretty much rebuilding since it's located in the complete back of the engine..... tonight i ran into a problem that someone else here might know the answere to. i took the aluminum plate off the side of the engine that is beneath the oil pump gears'n'such, which exposes the crank. now, i'm not sure how i pull the counterbalance shaft out. do i really need to take the crank out? if so, is the crank 2 pieces? i'm using a Falicon stroker if that makes a differance.
and thanks fo the locktight advice.
and thanks fo the locktight advice.
Do you have a service manual? If not then I suggest you stop what you are doing and print one of the free ones out before you destroy your expensive engine. It would show that the oil pump housing must come off and the tiny drive pin must be removed to remove the counterbalancer. This should have been done before you removed the cartridge plate. I hope you removed the cartridge plate with the puller screw holes located in the plate and did not pry chisel or hammer on the extremely fragile aluminum parts or you will have a whole pile of problems with internal leaks . Dont forget to smooth and polish the starter drive gear shaft or it will chew right through the new one way rollers . The one way bearing also only goes in one way that needs to be verified several times before reassembly or a full teardown will be required yet again to fix it. Its all in the service manual as well as removing the piston and sleeve without destroying the case and sleeve.
QUOTE (Wistech @ Mar 18 2008, 09:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Do you have a service manual? If not then I suggest you stop what you are doing and print one of the free ones out before you destroy your expensive engine. It would show that the oil pump housing must come off and the tiny drive pin must be removed to remove the counterbalancer. This should have been done before you removed the cartridge plate. I hope you removed the cartridge plate with the puller screw holes located in the plate and did not pry chisel or hammer on the extremely fragile aluminum parts or you will have a whole pile of problems with internal leaks . Dont forget to smooth and polish the starter drive gear shaft or it will chew right through the new one way rollers . The one way bearing also only goes in one way that needs to be verified several times before reassembly or a full teardown will be required yet again to fix it. Its all in the service manual as well as removing the piston and sleeve without destroying the case and sleeve.
with all due respect, i did remove the oil pump housing and drive pin. i could use a service manual, but with common sense i can take something apart without breaking it..... my question was how do i get the counterbalance shaft with the gears past the crank so i can take it out, polish the end(some other people have told me to do this too), and put this thing back together the right way so i can actaully ride again...i don't mean to be disrespectful by any means, and i'm sure you probably know more about these enginges than i do, but i know that this engine and the parts are expensive, can be damaged easily, and need to be put together properly.....does anyone know if my crank has to come out or not?
sorry for the missunderstanding Wisetech and thanks for the help.
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Canniboomer
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QUOTE (o3speed @ Mar 20 2008, 10:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
...., but i know that this engine and the parts are expensive, can be damaged easily, and need to be put together properly.....does anyone know if my crank has to come out or not?
So, why don't you refer to the Service Manual now?...it's a free download, and plenty of the pages are devoted to removals. Common sense is not enough. We all need to refer to it for some vital info and technique,... at least the first time.
Yes, you will need to pull off the head, the sleeve, the piston, and remove the crank in unison with the balance shaft.
But please, download the manual!, and make sure you have a flywheel puller.
I can send one out today for Saturday, but turning around a Falicon motor before next week is not wise for a first-time builder -- you will need more time, and really should verify that crank directly with Timbomoose anyway, to make SURE it has the recent fixes.
QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Mar 20 2008, 01:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So, why don't you refer to the Service Manual now?...it's a free download, and plenty of the pages are devoted to removals. Common sense is not enough. We all need to refer to it for some vital info and technique,... at least the first time.
Yes, you will need to pull off the head, the sleeve, the piston, and remove the crank in unison with the balance shaft.
But please, download the manual!, and make sure you have a flywheel puller.
I can send one out today for Saturday, but turning around a Falicon motor before next week is not wise for a first-time builder -- you will need more time, and really should verify that crank directly with Timbomoose anyway, to make SURE it has the recent fixes.
Yes, you will need to pull off the head, the sleeve, the piston, and remove the crank in unison with the balance shaft.
But please, download the manual!, and make sure you have a flywheel puller.
I can send one out today for Saturday, but turning around a Falicon motor before next week is not wise for a first-time builder -- you will need more time, and really should verify that crank directly with Timbomoose anyway, to make SURE it has the recent fixes.
Don't worry it all comes apart like butter