Royal Purple oil
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Hacksaw830
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Anybody use it? is it worth a crap? the reason I ask is that I can get it $27 gallon. I use Mobile 1 synthetic in my car, but I was told that Purple was better. I would like to use Amsoil or Redline but none of the stores carry it Autozone, Oreilly, Advance, Napa, etc. and I have heard from others that it is really good oil.
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thedeatons
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
They make horsepower gain claims, then again who doesn't. I have used it before, never noticed anything any different than Red Line. It is a full synthetic as far as I know, but the term synthetic is being thrown around in quite the cavalier fashion lately.
The best thing to do is run it and do oil analysis on the oil when you change it, then compare that to analysis from other brands in your engine. This will tell you what works best for you.
The best thing to do is run it and do oil analysis on the oil when you change it, then compare that to analysis from other brands in your engine. This will tell you what works best for you.
QUOTE (Hacksaw830 @ Jun 19 2008, 02:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Anybody use it? is it worth a crap? the reason I ask is that I can get it $27 gallon. I use Mobile 1 synthetic in my car, but I was told that Purple was better. I would like to use Amsoil or Redline but none of the stores carry it Autozone, Oreilly, Advance, Napa, etc. and I have heard from others that it is really good oil.
Amsoil is not normally sold in stores only at distributors I believe and Redline is a motorsports related oil and usually only available thru Motorsports Dealers or race shops.
Make sure what you use is fully synthetic and not a blend or mineral based. I have used Mobil One in everything for years and have found out recently that it has some mineral properties in it. It has worked forever for me and that's why I still use it. Not one single oil related failure. I have heard Shell Rotella T synthetic is available for a good price at Walmart and is a good oil as well. At only 1 1/2 quarts per oil change it really doesn't matter much what you use....
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Hacksaw830
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (thedeatons @ Jun 19 2008, 03:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
They make horsepower gain claims, then again who doesn't. I have used it before, never noticed anything any different than Red Line. It is a full synthetic as far as I know, but the term synthetic is being thrown around in quite the cavalier fashion lately.
The best thing to do is run it and do oil analysis on the oil when you change it, then compare that to analysis from other brands in your engine. This will tell you what works best for you.
The best thing to do is run it and do oil analysis on the oil when you change it, then compare that to analysis from other brands in your engine. This will tell you what works best for you.
I can get the redline heavy shock proof gear lube at the local hot rod shop, I was going to put it in the tranny and royal purple in the engine. But now I am unsure about using the heavy in the tranny, I was told to use the lightweight NOT the heavy, why??? , anyway the guy at the store said he could only get it by the case (duh) and the lightweight didnt sell really well.
Well, what an interesting question. I think I am the lone user on these boards.
I am a RP user and have been for about 5 years. I now use it in everything I
own.
I started using it when I started driving for a living back in 03. I
was tired of changing my oil in my PS every month so I though there must be a better way.
Long story short I liked what I read about RP and now I never change my oil in my PS. I
use a bypass filter and lab sample the oil. I now have 425K on the ticker.
Yes RP is 100% synthetic(no DIN oil whatsoever). To my disbelief I discovered there are a
lot of 100% synthetic oils that do in fact use DIN oils as their base oil. I call foul.
As far as the ratings go on oils, It is my understanding that the newer ratings
on oils offer the same protection as the older ratings and are improved upon the older ratings.
For instance Our Cdales call for SF/SG but the newer SJ, SL and SM will offer full protection as well.
So any good FULL synthetic oil with any of the above ratings would be fine (in my opinion).
With that being said the RP oils in 10W30 and 10W40 are API SL rated.
I personally use RP's XPR racing oil in my Cannondale. Being it is a racing oil it is not API rated
but according to Kyle Neal at RP, it offers the best protection and performance. I am running this
in my new stock Timbo rebuild and am running an hour meter. Changing oil every 10 hours(that seems like forever though). I even use their Synchromax in the tranny.
It is ported and cycloned but is still a stock 432.
I am a RP user and have been for about 5 years. I now use it in everything I
own.
I started using it when I started driving for a living back in 03. I
was tired of changing my oil in my PS every month so I though there must be a better way.
Long story short I liked what I read about RP and now I never change my oil in my PS. I
use a bypass filter and lab sample the oil. I now have 425K on the ticker.
Yes RP is 100% synthetic(no DIN oil whatsoever). To my disbelief I discovered there are a
lot of 100% synthetic oils that do in fact use DIN oils as their base oil. I call foul.
As far as the ratings go on oils, It is my understanding that the newer ratings
on oils offer the same protection as the older ratings and are improved upon the older ratings.
For instance Our Cdales call for SF/SG but the newer SJ, SL and SM will offer full protection as well.
So any good FULL synthetic oil with any of the above ratings would be fine (in my opinion).
With that being said the RP oils in 10W30 and 10W40 are API SL rated.
I personally use RP's XPR racing oil in my Cannondale. Being it is a racing oil it is not API rated
but according to Kyle Neal at RP, it offers the best protection and performance. I am running this
in my new stock Timbo rebuild and am running an hour meter. Changing oil every 10 hours(that seems like forever though). I even use their Synchromax in the tranny.
It is ported and cycloned but is still a stock 432.
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thedeatons
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Red Line Lightweight Shockproof in the tranny. The engineers at Red Line can tell you why, I just bought what they told me 
The engineers claimed it should last at least one full year in the tranny regardless of use. I am on about one year in my Glamis, it is still buttery smooth.
As fo oil, analysis is the way to go. I have been using Mobil 1 in my Mitsubishi Lancer since 30k miles. It now has 160k miles on it and I have been changing the oil at 10k mile intervals. Still running great. Mobil 1, while mineral oil based, is used in MANY of GMs vehicles with extended drain intervals, including the Corvette not to mention the Porsche Boxster... Lots of vehicles are coming with "Mobil 1" on the oil cap.
I personally use Rotella T (blue jug) in my Duramax dually, as it is a great oil and inexpensive. I know many who use that in their Dales also. I prefer Red Line for my quads, because of brand loyalty, and I believe they are at the top of the synthetic standard.
I have noticed a difference between the trannys using Bel Ray Gear Saver and mine using Lightweight Shockproof. Synthetic fluids offer superior shifting and longevity in my experience.
The engineers claimed it should last at least one full year in the tranny regardless of use. I am on about one year in my Glamis, it is still buttery smooth.As fo oil, analysis is the way to go. I have been using Mobil 1 in my Mitsubishi Lancer since 30k miles. It now has 160k miles on it and I have been changing the oil at 10k mile intervals. Still running great. Mobil 1, while mineral oil based, is used in MANY of GMs vehicles with extended drain intervals, including the Corvette not to mention the Porsche Boxster... Lots of vehicles are coming with "Mobil 1" on the oil cap.
I personally use Rotella T (blue jug) in my Duramax dually, as it is a great oil and inexpensive. I know many who use that in their Dales also. I prefer Red Line for my quads, because of brand loyalty, and I believe they are at the top of the synthetic standard.
I have noticed a difference between the trannys using Bel Ray Gear Saver and mine using Lightweight Shockproof. Synthetic fluids offer superior shifting and longevity in my experience.
Somebody posted the oil ratings list a while back and it shows the improved ratings with the older ratings as well. I have a problem recommending oils that I have not personally used, but I have not heard any complaints about Royal Purple. I think the lightweight shock oil is what you are looking for. You need a 75W-90W gear oil that is NON-HYPOID. The weight will vary from 75 to 90 (ei: 75-85, 80-90, etc).