Help oil coming out intake hose to air filter

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fastfords02 · #1 Post by **fastfords02** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 11:13 pm

Help just installed newly rebuilt engine, put one quart of synthetic oil in and ran for a minute, checked and seemed to be ok, drained oil to look at filter, drained base and frame and added another quart, ran for a minute and checked again, seemed to be full according to dipstick, after running for a while oil is coming out hose to air filter. did i overfill? is this ok?

wanablaze · #2 Post by **wanablaze** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:54 am

Sounds like it's overfilled. Drain everything completely. I would try to use nonsynthetic for at least the first hour.

If you're still having problems, make sure that you have the oil line update.

Still puking? Check that your oil pumps are working and oil pump gears aren't stripped.

CowsBitePeople · #3 Post by **CowsBitePeople** » Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:07 pm

QUOTE (wanablaze @ Mar 9 2007, 09:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sounds like it's overfilled. Drain everything completely. I would try to use nonsynthetic for at least the first hour.

If you're still having problems, make sure that you have the oil line update.

Still puking? Check that your oil pumps are working and oil pump gears aren't stripped.

im having the same problem what is the oil line update?

cannondale27 · #4 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Jul 04, 2008 4:41 pm

If you have a Banjo fitting on engine oil drain you might need the update. To drain the oil there are 2 frame drains (look like big brake bleeders) and 1 motor drain and filter plus the tranny drain. That makes 5 drains total. First thing you should do when changing oil is to check for flow. Remove dipstick and look down hole. You will see another hole directly below dipstick hole. Oil should be flowing down that hole and about even or just slightly above/below that hole level.

Canniboomer · #5 Post by **Canniboomer** » Fri Jul 04, 2008 4:53 pm

Also, here's a recent thread on this site, with a link to the venting update, if you still need it.

http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...ic=21625&hl

Also note, that once oil has purged out, you will have some oil trapped in the right rear frame section, below any hump in the line between the starter cover and the right rear frame port -- so it's good to also raise the rear end to move that dirty oil back into the sump -- and then out the drain when it's leveled again. At the same time, you also get the remaining small pond of dirty oil at the bottom of the crank, which will not come out with just a level drain only.

wistech · #6 Post by **wistech** » Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:13 pm

If you didn't have the problem before I doubt the oil line update will make any difference. Did you check for oil flow at start up by watching for the river of oil through the fill hole? If you don't see if flowing within a miunite of first starting your scavange pumps are not working and the engine is blasting oil out throught the crankcase breather.

speedracer · #7 Post by **speedracer** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:27 am

QUOTE (Wistech @ Jul 4 2008, 01:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you didn't have the problem before I doubt the oil line update will make any difference. Did you check for oil flow at start up by watching for the river of oil through the fill hole? If you don't see if flowing within a miunite of first starting your scavange pumps are not working and the engine is blasting oil out throught the crankcase breather.

Yea,my scavange pump gear (plastic) was cracked in half.You can pull the clutch cover to check the gears,good luck.