Cams...

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thedeatons · #71 Post by **thedeatons** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:43 am

I leave the Moto nerfs on, and use a jackstand to hold the swingarm up when I yank the rear engine mount bolt. Tranny jack under the cradle, then when it's ready to drop I lower it about an inch, then slide the rear engine mount bolt back in. Lower the engine the rest of the way, then lift the quad on its side like I am changing the oil, and have my wife pull the engine out on the tranny jack. The quad is only apart for about a minute, the rest of the time it is an intact roller...

claas900 · #72 Post by **claas900** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:45 am

I've done it with out removing the rear shock,and with the motor down a bit it lets me get to the exhaust nuts. I don't remove the shock brace either again with the motor down it lets me get to the coil hold down bolt. When you have the rad tilted and mounted forward 3/4 of an inch you don't have to remove it. It can be done in stock mount but its harder. And with rad tilted forward 3/4 of an inch it helps with better air flow.

thedeatons · #73 Post by **thedeatons** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 4:11 am

Yah, I unbolt the top of hte rear shock just to get to the header nuts, then attach it right back.

Aren't we supposed to be talking about cams? LOL

cannondale27 · #74 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 1:29 pm

Unfortunately since motor removal to check cams is the safest course of action and is much easier than trying to remove the valvecover while in frame it is very relevant.

Class900 have you ever looked to see if a partial drop would make valve cover removal in frame feasible?Good tip on exhaust.Never tried that.It is possible to remove and install exhaust without removing anything even plastic but it sometimes goes easy and sometimes not.Kdeals exhaust took a hour at group ride but was no hurry and saved loctite

thedeatons · #75 Post by **thedeatons** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:06 pm

Cdsracer told me a great tip on this:

Leave the cylinder head's locator pin (for the sidecover) out of the side of the head when you install the sidecover/gasket.

This will allow you to yank the cam cover while the engine is still installed. He has done at least three water seals this way and checked clearances, all while the engine was bolted in as normal.

I spoke with Tim about having a cam cover with a removeable center square for checking cams/clearances... We agreed that would be nice...

claas900 · #76 Post by **claas900** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 10:30 pm

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Aug 2 2008, 06:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Unfortunately since motor removal to check cams is the safest course of action and is much easier than trying to remove the valvecover while in frame it is very relevant.

Class900 have you ever looked to see if a partial drop would make valve cover removal in frame feasible?Good tip on exhaust.Never tried that.It is possible to remove and install exhaust without removing anything even plastic but it sometimes goes easy and sometimes not.Kdeals exhaust took a hour at group ride but was no hurry and saved loctite

I've never had to drop a motor just to look at cams,most times its something major and needs to come out all the way. I've dropped a few motors with out removing any plastic or tank. Well head light cover to get to water vent hose. As long as you don't forget the water vent hose and vent hose from cam cover theres really nothing else up top you have to get to, as I said coil wire is long enough to get to with motor down.
I have a 2X4 prefect hight with a U cut out of the end to let the grab bar rest into it so when I remove the swing arm bolt and just lock up the front brakes. But I do what you do with the thrody body and injectors. Tho I have to break the chain every time I cant get the counter sprocket off with out doing that.

cannondale27 · #77 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 10:43 pm

QUOTE (thedeatons @ Aug 2 2008, 09:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Cdsracer told me a great tip on this:

Leave the cylinder head's locator pin (for the sidecover) out of the side of the head when you install the sidecover/gasket.

This will allow you to yank the cam cover while the engine is still installed. He has done at least three water seals this way and checked clearances, all while the engine was bolted in as normal.

I spoke with Tim about having a cam cover with a removeable center square for checking cams/clearances... We agreed that would be nice...

Waterpump seal is easily changed without removing the valvecover.I have left the dowel out and taken valvecover off that way but I found it to take less time just removing the motor.

m_mcgranahan · #78 Post by **m_mcgranahan** » Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:18 am

Hi,

I found that when I leave the dowel out and use the right tools, it does save me some time in checking the cams etc to pull the valve cover with the motor still in.

God bless....

Mark