Glamis almost ready

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cannondale27 · #31 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:01 am

It could hit both posts at once.

Canniboomer · #32 Post by **Canniboomer** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:14 am

Yep that would sure do it!... good point Steve!

For the strap, also consider using large heat shrink. You have to "inch-worm" it into place, and then break out the heat gun. Then you glue any pad back on with contact cement. Looks great also -- I'll find some pictures.

...OK, here are some pics. The HeatShrink can spiff up an ugly battery strap. Adding some color at the ends and the solenoid bracket is also cool. I have not installed this "Glamis" version yet, but it's sure to look trick. I have only done plain ones so far, and basically for cosmetic reasons.

I have never really thought about the shorting-out risk of a loose strap hitting both terminals,.... but I can see how it could be a real problem, and something else to prevent like C27 mentioned. So dipping or sleeving sure seem like good ideas.

cannondale27 · #33 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:36 pm

Alright Canniboomer you have one upped me again

rayspeed · #34 Post by **rayspeed** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:33 pm

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Nov 17 2008, 06:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Awesome results Brandon!

Note, the stock battery strap is isolated from the frame ground, and would not be "arching" against the battery cable, unless the strap is somehow separately grounded to the frame. So, your battery failure may be from some other cause.

Yeah I kind of brought that up but it kind of looked like it could have contacted both the negative and the positive at the same time so insulating the strap is a good idea.
If not that then it was shorted internally. I have not had much luck with these AGM sealed batteries, they cant seem to handle vibration, and they go suddenly like that.
Did not look up the exact one but they look like this.... I suggest everyone stay away from them!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-MOTOCYC...sspagenameZWDVW

Brandon I forgot to mention that when I pulled the negative from the frame side I think you had it sandwiched between the bolt and the regulator. Far better to sandwich it between the regulator and the frame, I put it the way it should go when I put it back together.

Good to meet you and your brother! Too bad we could not have gotten in a full ride!
Ray

desertbound · #35 Post by **desertbound** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:03 pm

Well I guess that could of been a problem too. I know I had it like that at one point, but I must of screwed up when I was fooling with my fuel pump. Thanks for fixing that. I got a new battery yesterday, and it started right up, no problems. It actually started up easier. I'm wondering if that battery was not taking a charge before we even took off. I had it on a battery tender Jr. here before I left. It was on the solid green "standby" mode. I guess anything could happen though. It was definately a power problem though.

thedeatons · #36 Post by **thedeatons** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:53 pm

Dude... Grab some status lights from Boomer so you can see whether the battery is charging while you are riding. Best money you will spend.....

cannondale27 · #37 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:41 pm

That green light on the Battery tenders are not very accurate.I dont trust mine anymore.Kept going into float mode(green light)within 2min of hooking up to a real dead battery.Never charged it even after a week.Hooked up the old Schumaker 1A charger and was good to go in a day.Will be sending my Battery tender back.

desertbound · #38 Post by **desertbound** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:45 pm

I have a normal trickle charger too, so if I need to I'll use that. The red light just stayed on with my old battery. It wouldn't even take a charge. It was shorted out for sure. The new one flashed green,(meaning 80%, I guess) for a couple hours and then went into float. This time I actually mounted the battery tender connectors to the battery for easy charging.