ITP C Series Wheels & Others - Bad Fitment

Message

thedeatons · #1 Post by **thedeatons** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:33 pm

I am posting this in hopes that it will save someone else the embarassment of seeing their wheel pass them while flying down a dune....

A couple years ago I bought paddles for my Moto, and went for a ride after installing them. As I mentioned above one of the rear wheels passed me while I was riding... Not cool, but at least I didn't get thrown.

Turns out the reason they were not tightening was because Cannondale (in their infinite brilliance) didn't have the studs threaded all the way to the hubs, so my tapered lugnuts were bottoming out just before clamping onto the wheels. I should have checked a little better during the installation, so it was my fault.

The fix for this turned out to be two fender washers per stud, adding another .5" to the quads width (yippee!).

Anyway, just thought I would mention to always give a good check before taaking off.

rayspeed · #2 Post by **rayspeed** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:57 pm

Good timely tip... Normally I dont care for these wheels cause they are heavy but they do look nice. I got a set of these for like $25 shipped brand new and a set of sand sharks to put on them for not much more off of e-bay and put them together as a spare set. Just got the lug nuts to be able to use them yesterday!
Now I guess I need to make some fancy aluminum spacers! I wonder if the ones I see at pep boys for four lug cars would be small enough?
Ray

jesshamner · #3 Post by **jesshamner** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:04 pm

Are they made for tapered lug nuts? I haven't seen any up close for a couple years and I don't remember. In the pics from ITP they do look tapered but they don't look like they have the aluminum ring like the stock honda wheels.

The C series do look cool especially in black.

thedeatons · #4 Post by **thedeatons** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:24 pm

They are made for tapered lugs, and I use ITP tapered lug nuts.... Yep, spacers or fender washers...

jesshamner · #5 Post by **jesshamner** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:57 am

Well, like you said, you get another .5 inches of width! lol.

thedeatons · #6 Post by **thedeatons** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:33 am

Yep!!! My Moto axle is +4.5, and the Moto a-arms are +2.25+1.... LOL

Canniboomer · #7 Post by **Canniboomer** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:08 am

That's a very good warning, thanks... But, we should not snipe at Cannondale for doing it better. I'd much rather have the full 10mm of high quality shank exposed there where the wheel seats and pins, as compared to weaker and looser full threading.

I think the other manufacturers should instead take a cue from Cannondale, and ITP-China should pay more attention.
Or maybe they changed the casting or machining. I recall installing a set of the C-Series way back in 2004 with the ITP tapered lugnuts (and before they had "polished" wheels available). I believe those wheels are still tight on the hubs.... but we will double-check that machine again for sure, thanks.

cannondale27 · #8 Post by **cannondale27** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:33 pm

Even Honda OEM rims if used on a Cannondale will wreak the first few threads on tapered nut from bottoming on the shoulder of stud and when you take the wreaked nut off it will bugger up the studs threads.Solution is just to run a die and make threads a bit longer on stud.Like Deatons said its not much more needed.Or you can buy all new studs directly from Honda that work just fine.

thedeatons · #9 Post by **thedeatons** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:10 pm

LOL... I figured it might be a pain to get those studs out.... Have you done it?

jesshamner · #10 Post by **jesshamner** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:12 pm

It's tough. I tried. I try a hydraulic press though. That would probably do it.