Anyone live Near Iowa..../ fuel pump... again
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Whats up, I'm near Cedar Rapids and have a stock pile of Cannondales haha. I haven't been on the forums forever.
Take the quick connect out of the tank and make sure the in take screen isnt plugged, along with the banjo fittings as said before.
Also I have like 3 or 4 ECU's some have bad drivers, not sure, but I know I have a good one or two. But honestly the econo way would be to wire up the stock stop switch to the pump and just switch it off, I ran an ECU with a bad fan driver for 2 years on a switch.
Hit me up sometime and we should go riding, I'm going to the pits in Waterloo tomorrow. I'm at Lakeview near Ely every once and a while too.
Take the quick connect out of the tank and make sure the in take screen isnt plugged, along with the banjo fittings as said before.
Also I have like 3 or 4 ECU's some have bad drivers, not sure, but I know I have a good one or two. But honestly the econo way would be to wire up the stock stop switch to the pump and just switch it off, I ran an ECU with a bad fan driver for 2 years on a switch.
Hit me up sometime and we should go riding, I'm going to the pits in Waterloo tomorrow. I'm at Lakeview near Ely every once and a while too.
QUOTE (motodiseased1 @ Feb 15 2009, 08:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I dont think its sucking anything, I put a bunch of carb cleaner in a cup and powered the pump with a separate source and it wouldn't pick that up either...
Don't use carb cleaner, it's not the same as gas and will likely damage orings and seals.
I would get a bucket with some gas, put it higher than the pump, get a siphin started so you have some head pressure, and try that, be sure you have your output line going somewhere, best would be to have it hooked to your injectors and regulator with the return going back to the bucket without the QD.
If that doesn't work then I would say that there is no hope for the pumps that you have.
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It seems you started out with just a bad fuel pump -- That is usually caused by now from the skimpy stock fuel path. Then, while you may have fiddled to test or exchange pumps, you inadvertently zapped out the ECU switching circuit. BEWARE, you should always UNPLUG the pump pigtail from the main harness FIRST, before working around the pump,....and it's good to put a bootie on the negative terminal also (to remind you, and for good measure).
And, if you still have the skinny-wire early pigtail?,... that one is junk anyway. I have the HD dual-booted pigtails in stock, cheap. Anyway, that was an early and basic Cannondale Bulletin, and it is available for download on these forums.
Now, it seems you have two bad pumps, but will still have the "fuelpump run-on" when you replace the pump -- a new pump will NOT change that. The pump either runs or does not run, or it pumps or does not pump -- there is no internal switching in the pump. The ECU controls the switching.
http://www.cannondaleriders.com/tech/SB02-010_fuel_pump.pdf
And, if you still have the skinny-wire early pigtail?,... that one is junk anyway. I have the HD dual-booted pigtails in stock, cheap. Anyway, that was an early and basic Cannondale Bulletin, and it is available for download on these forums.
Now, it seems you have two bad pumps, but will still have the "fuelpump run-on" when you replace the pump -- a new pump will NOT change that. The pump either runs or does not run, or it pumps or does not pump -- there is no internal switching in the pump. The ECU controls the switching.
http://www.cannondaleriders.com/tech/SB02-010_fuel_pump.pdf