Engine blown already?
Eric,
Dude, this sounds like your connecting rod bearing. I know because the same thing, from the sounds of it, happened to me--stalling, tires locking, rolling in neutral, etc. When you stick a wrench on the main crank nut, it will turn a bit, then be ok for a while and then jam up. The good news is there are more cranks available, the bad news is they probably suck too. If you do need a crank, I'd check out Diamondracing, at least that is what I am going to do. Good luck.
WJR
Dude, this sounds like your connecting rod bearing. I know because the same thing, from the sounds of it, happened to me--stalling, tires locking, rolling in neutral, etc. When you stick a wrench on the main crank nut, it will turn a bit, then be ok for a while and then jam up. The good news is there are more cranks available, the bad news is they probably suck too. If you do need a crank, I'd check out Diamondracing, at least that is what I am going to do. Good luck.
WJR
Thomez,
FWIW, I thought about doing that, too. But I couldn't convince myself that it would be a quality fix. First, the older style ran without a bearing race. That is, they just ran the crank pin on the carburized rod surface. Apparantly, this was not to carillo specs. Second, there are different length cranks out there. I am not sure which goes with which. Third, the newer style cranks have a con rod bearing that is rated for 11000 rpm, and most of our engines tach out at 11600. I dunno, it was too shakey for me.
WJR
FWIW, I thought about doing that, too. But I couldn't convince myself that it would be a quality fix. First, the older style ran without a bearing race. That is, they just ran the crank pin on the carburized rod surface. Apparantly, this was not to carillo specs. Second, there are different length cranks out there. I am not sure which goes with which. Third, the newer style cranks have a con rod bearing that is rated for 11000 rpm, and most of our engines tach out at 11600. I dunno, it was too shakey for me.
WJR
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Rebuilding crankshafts is a form of art.Really.They are pressed apart and then pressed back together after changing rod and bearing.That is where the art comes in you have clearances to meet,it has to be perfectly straight and it all has to be in sync and I think you have to get it right the very first time.All while working with tons of pressure.It requires a "feel" that most will never have.It is something I have always wanted to try to learn.
A good example to explain this is we have a guy who works in a old garage a few mi north of me.He does every single factory recalled or failed crank for Yamaha snowmobiles under contract with Yamaha.They have tried others but his success rate is best.By the looks of his shop most would turn around and leave but like I said he has a nack for it.
A good example to explain this is we have a guy who works in a old garage a few mi north of me.He does every single factory recalled or failed crank for Yamaha snowmobiles under contract with Yamaha.They have tried others but his success rate is best.By the looks of his shop most would turn around and leave but like I said he has a nack for it.