Cannibal Dead, Again
Well it started fine this morning w/some more smoke but not nearly as much. I checked the plug and cleaned it and all but didn't look bad. No oil in cylinder either as well as battery at full charge. Not sure what it was or caused the fuel pump to not run but it seems fine now. But now my only problem is that there's 3in of snow on the ground and it's 20 degrees out. :wow
:furious: It won't start again! I decided to give it a little run out in the snow and went out and nothing. Fuel pump isn't running, when I hit the starter there's nothing, not even a sound. The lights are bright and battery says full charge but nothing's working except lights.
I don't have the time to give another full check tonight but will tomorrow and looking for suggestions to what to look for first other than some of the things you guys have already listed. If I can't find it it's going back to Quadshop, again! Any help is greatly appreciated.
BTW: Someone, fogot who, pm'd and asked about it rolling freely b/c something might of locked up. It's not that either though. In neutral it moves easily.
I don't have the time to give another full check tonight but will tomorrow and looking for suggestions to what to look for first other than some of the things you guys have already listed. If I can't find it it's going back to Quadshop, again! Any help is greatly appreciated.
BTW: Someone, fogot who, pm'd and asked about it rolling freely b/c something might of locked up. It's not that either though. In neutral it moves easily.
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ok, this is messing me up badly here! I went out about an hour ago and turned the key. Well, fuel pump came on and after 4 tries it kept running. Rode it around in the snow for about 10mins w/out one backfire or problem at all. Everything seems fine now. Am I crazy or does this thing have a mind of its own? :confused: Looks like I'm investing in a D&M kit sometime very soon.
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Psychosis, it's important to do this in steps. Very easy to get overwhelmed by the infrequency and variety of the symptoms. You need to progress on this issue by eliminating variables, or potential causes for the symptoms you are seeing. If you jump around in your process you will never isolate any one cause and you probably wont make any progress.
I can say right now that, though it is a helpful tool, you dont need to spend the money on a DM tool to fix this problem.
Electrical problems are often like this, sometimes working sometimes not. It usually means you have some level of corrosion intermittantly breaking the electrical connection.
Just beacuse wires and connections "Look" ok doesnt mean they are elctronically sound.
Disconnect your electrical connections and put a squirt of dialectric grease in there reconnect and then retry. You can get dialectric grease at Shucks, NAPA or any vehicle maintenance shop. It keeps the connections from corroding.
Do this with all your electrical connections. I recommend that you pull the fuse prior to starting. It takes a couple hours to get everything. Do the lugs on the battery, the starter relay and the starter itself as well. Then do all plugs you can access. I would go as far as to remove the airbox and get at the fuel injector controlers as well. Dont forget the wire bundle in front of the radiator. Lot of bullet connectors there that are notorious for developing bad connections.
Dont take a short cut and not do this, it's very important and I think it has something to do with your current problem.
Ok, now for my opinion.
You have 2 problems. The white smoke is not related to your electrical issue. Someone else said that it's most likely an overfill. I agree. Dont let it confuse this issue
The electrical problem.
Lights work but fuel pump does not. Means you at least have a good ground. But that would have been my first guess, given that your lights work need to move to the starting system.
My next guess would be the Starter relay, but your fuel pump isnt working either and they are independant of eachother so Im guessing your starter relay is fine. I believe, but dont know for certain that if the fuel pump had a bad connection the bike would still turn over. So I dont think this problem is fuel pump specific.
This leaves, for my limited knowledge base at least, the on / off selector switch on the handle bars. As Alaska said, you probably have a shorted connection in there. Disassemble it, clean it with electrical cleaner (again you can get this at your local auto maintenance store) dry it thoroughly and reassemble.
I got 5 bucks says that's your problem, but you still need to go through and do the dialectric grease thing on all the other connectors as I've outlined.
Good luck, if you have any questions you can give me a call after 5pm Pacific
253.334.4736
I go by Joe, I always feel a little bit silly when folks ask for LapTraffic
Good luck and keep us posted
I can say right now that, though it is a helpful tool, you dont need to spend the money on a DM tool to fix this problem.
Electrical problems are often like this, sometimes working sometimes not. It usually means you have some level of corrosion intermittantly breaking the electrical connection.
Just beacuse wires and connections "Look" ok doesnt mean they are elctronically sound.
Disconnect your electrical connections and put a squirt of dialectric grease in there reconnect and then retry. You can get dialectric grease at Shucks, NAPA or any vehicle maintenance shop. It keeps the connections from corroding.
Do this with all your electrical connections. I recommend that you pull the fuse prior to starting. It takes a couple hours to get everything. Do the lugs on the battery, the starter relay and the starter itself as well. Then do all plugs you can access. I would go as far as to remove the airbox and get at the fuel injector controlers as well. Dont forget the wire bundle in front of the radiator. Lot of bullet connectors there that are notorious for developing bad connections.
Dont take a short cut and not do this, it's very important and I think it has something to do with your current problem.
Ok, now for my opinion.
You have 2 problems. The white smoke is not related to your electrical issue. Someone else said that it's most likely an overfill. I agree. Dont let it confuse this issue
The electrical problem.
Lights work but fuel pump does not. Means you at least have a good ground. But that would have been my first guess, given that your lights work need to move to the starting system.
My next guess would be the Starter relay, but your fuel pump isnt working either and they are independant of eachother so Im guessing your starter relay is fine. I believe, but dont know for certain that if the fuel pump had a bad connection the bike would still turn over. So I dont think this problem is fuel pump specific.
This leaves, for my limited knowledge base at least, the on / off selector switch on the handle bars. As Alaska said, you probably have a shorted connection in there. Disassemble it, clean it with electrical cleaner (again you can get this at your local auto maintenance store) dry it thoroughly and reassemble.
I got 5 bucks says that's your problem, but you still need to go through and do the dialectric grease thing on all the other connectors as I've outlined.
Good luck, if you have any questions you can give me a call after 5pm Pacific
253.334.4736
I go by Joe, I always feel a little bit silly when folks ask for LapTraffic
Good luck and keep us posted
I'm gonna have to agree with laptraffic. I've had similar symptoms and it is random, always seems to be the engine kill switch. If the bike doesn't start/turn over, I flip the kill switch to off and then back to on and it starts. When this first happened it had stalled while I was racing up a hill throught the trees. I was like oh sh!+. I didn't get hit, but the guy behind me did. Good luck and thanx for the info laptraffic, I'm gonna go grease my connections soon.