Air box mod
FUGITV: Can you give me part numbers and details on everything I need to make the setup the same as yours?
Canniboomer: Can you give some details on what Fuel Filter your using and how you have the lines running and fuel pump mounted? Also do you think it would be possible to the Regulator onto the ECU tray with this setup?
Thanks guys
Canniboomer: Can you give some details on what Fuel Filter your using and how you have the lines running and fuel pump mounted? Also do you think it would be possible to the Regulator onto the ECU tray with this setup?
Thanks guys
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Yep, I can get that info, just email.
..A pic here, note regulator is up top and freed up space on right spar to add the new NOLOGY coil, taller battery, better access to ground lugs, etc. Relay is also raised, and rectifier reversed with connectors up from bottom now in ECU tray. Fuel pump is suspended and a very rigid shock-mount using old battery hold-down strap from above, pump fits nicely between rectifier and steering stem, and can still access the banjos and terminals from below without fender removal -- less fire hazard from leaking crush washers. Fuel filter is a Purolator F43187 1/4" in/out across top, and suspended with 2 cutaway zip ties from a 6mm stainless "curtain rod" that I run across and between frame lugs,
and also holds fender stays same as stock bolts and helps keep harness and other stuff up above where it belongs. Pump inlet is on left, outlet on right, and only a 1/4" smooth-90 SS bend needed to hit the inlet injector nicely. Most lines re-used unless damaged, both extended for easier tank removal. Just pull left rad-shroud and filter change very easy.
..A pic here, note regulator is up top and freed up space on right spar to add the new NOLOGY coil, taller battery, better access to ground lugs, etc. Relay is also raised, and rectifier reversed with connectors up from bottom now in ECU tray. Fuel pump is suspended and a very rigid shock-mount using old battery hold-down strap from above, pump fits nicely between rectifier and steering stem, and can still access the banjos and terminals from below without fender removal -- less fire hazard from leaking crush washers. Fuel filter is a Purolator F43187 1/4" in/out across top, and suspended with 2 cutaway zip ties from a 6mm stainless "curtain rod" that I run across and between frame lugs,
and also holds fender stays same as stock bolts and helps keep harness and other stuff up above where it belongs. Pump inlet is on left, outlet on right, and only a 1/4" smooth-90 SS bend needed to hit the inlet injector nicely. Most lines re-used unless damaged, both extended for easier tank removal. Just pull left rad-shroud and filter change very easy.
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A couple of things....
Has anyone ever measured the amount of vacuum at (inside) your throttle body with...
Stock foam airfilter
K&N airfilter in stock location
when airfilter is attached directly to the throttle body
which setup restricts air flow the most? I think that the filter is the bottle neck, no matter where or how your set up is...
who know's this newbie could be off his rocker
Has anyone ever measured the amount of vacuum at (inside) your throttle body with...
Stock foam airfilter
K&N airfilter in stock location
when airfilter is attached directly to the throttle body
which setup restricts air flow the most? I think that the filter is the bottle neck, no matter where or how your set up is...
who know's this newbie could be off his rocker
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Don't know, but the large direct-mount K&N has great flow and easy ability to add an outerwear, maybe you couldn't do that in the stock location. Also, very simple to add the K&N foam sleeving Part 25-3900 if you wanted, plus an outerwear -- all situations covered.... and you also get so much space created to ventilate above radiator and top of motor, and lubing/cleaning the throttle body, checking lines/connects etc. now all hidden under that huge stock airbox (yes, the stock box is an engineering work of art, but sheeeesh!).