Bleeding is a bear with these.Haydug came up with the tip to bleed them with the caliper off and in a position so the bleeder screw is up higher which it isnt in stock position.
If it isnt the bleeding you need to look at the pads and rotor they have to be parallel to each other so the pads hit flat.If not then something is bent and would give your symptoms.
Front Brake Calipers
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LapTraffic
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I think I can figure out what the bleeding tip is and I have a spare rotor to keep the pads separated. Not a bad idea!
I dont think it's air in the lines, its not behaving like that anyway, but I can always use a better way to bleed these infernal things.
250r dual piston caliper? will they work on these spindles?
I dont think it's air in the lines, its not behaving like that anyway, but I can always use a better way to bleed these infernal things.
250r dual piston caliper? will they work on these spindles?
Lap
As a side note, also make sure you're using the right brake fluid. I was originally told I could use Dot 5 brake fluid. It worked fine for a while, but then started acting up. I later found out that Dot 5 is not compatible. You can use dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (Dot five point one is compatible and I've been using it for a while now, however Dot 5 is not.). Good luck, Dual piston Calipers would be cool! JFARRAR, you aren't happy with your brakes, my stock fronts are the best I've ever owned.
As a side note, also make sure you're using the right brake fluid. I was originally told I could use Dot 5 brake fluid. It worked fine for a while, but then started acting up. I later found out that Dot 5 is not compatible. You can use dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (Dot five point one is compatible and I've been using it for a while now, however Dot 5 is not.). Good luck, Dual piston Calipers would be cool! JFARRAR, you aren't happy with your brakes, my stock fronts are the best I've ever owned.
i think the brakes are decent on a dale but seemed i could always stop the r with alot less effort(it was alot lighter quad)sometimes when i come into a corner i am squeezing my lever hard.scary hard.is there a way to deglaze the wave rotors.this would probably help alot.i am sure they are glazed from the heat.
When we had a spongie problem we put a 400EX master cylinder on. Took care of the brake problem and stops alot better.
Have you been just working on the side that got hit?. Maybe check the other side too. If you still have rubber brake lines one of them may have gone bad and is expanding like a balloon. If you have S.S. lines check for a kink. If the wheel bearings are snug and the wheel/rotor spins true / all new dot 4 fluid, I would try a EX master cylinder if you can borrow one. Just typing/thinking here, maybe check to see that the line from the master cylinder to the tee block isn't binding when handle bars are turned lock to lock.
Have you been just working on the side that got hit?. Maybe check the other side too. If you still have rubber brake lines one of them may have gone bad and is expanding like a balloon. If you have S.S. lines check for a kink. If the wheel bearings are snug and the wheel/rotor spins true / all new dot 4 fluid, I would try a EX master cylinder if you can borrow one. Just typing/thinking here, maybe check to see that the line from the master cylinder to the tee block isn't binding when handle bars are turned lock to lock.
What pins are you quys talking about. Are you talking about the two bolts that hold the brake pads in. My left calper moves when i pump the brakes and it doesn't grab like the right one. I replace the calper with another one and it still does it. Nothing looks dent when i spin the wheel. Im thinking it might be the brake pads.:confused: