oil and coolant who knows???
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
oil and coolant who knows???
Ya i hear all kinds of coolants and oils being used in dales. which are good and bad? i heard engine ice, evans and water wetter are safe? true, also oil wise i hear tons of differnt but i hear not to run syntinics b/c they burn up clucths ???? gimme so help here thanks
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I've always run redline oils in top and bottom. However, they are very expensive. When my motor rebuild is done, I am considering using mobile one red cap on the top and staying with the redline shockproof on the bottom. I have to agree with ****** on this issue. Plus I already use mobile one red cap in the YFZ. It's cheaper, easy to get (Walmart stocks it!) and I only have to keep one type of oil around.
I used Engine ice but it still corrodes the magnesium covers. It only slows it down. Get an aluminum valve cover or use evans. I am told th engine ice could work long term if you changed it out every 6 months. The deionized water changed to plain water over time and then begins the valve cover corrosion.
I used Engine ice but it still corrodes the magnesium covers. It only slows it down. Get an aluminum valve cover or use evans. I am told th engine ice could work long term if you changed it out every 6 months. The deionized water changed to plain water over time and then begins the valve cover corrosion.
Use Evans coolent unless you have the alumanum(sp) cam cover. Then car antifreeze is OK. The green stuff not the pink.
On the oil there are alot of choices. A full synth. is a must for the motor. For the tranny the oil must be rated for wet clutches.
To make it fool proof (which I some times am) talk to Amsoil ( www.amsoil.com ) I use there 0w-40 motorcycle oil in the motor and tranny. Ask Timbomoose what the inside of my motor looks like. He couldn't believe how clean and tight it still was. The clutches are still in good shape too.
The key to the whole thing is to change the oils often. I do both at the same time, oil is cheap as compared to parts. It gets done after about four hours of hard racing. To get 4 hours of MX racing on it thats a good two days and one open practice day.
Another way to tell if it needs changing is by the color of the motor oil. Once it gets to a darker brown its really due to be changed.
Hope this helps.
On the oil there are alot of choices. A full synth. is a must for the motor. For the tranny the oil must be rated for wet clutches.
To make it fool proof (which I some times am) talk to Amsoil ( www.amsoil.com ) I use there 0w-40 motorcycle oil in the motor and tranny. Ask Timbomoose what the inside of my motor looks like. He couldn't believe how clean and tight it still was. The clutches are still in good shape too.
The key to the whole thing is to change the oils often. I do both at the same time, oil is cheap as compared to parts. It gets done after about four hours of hard racing. To get 4 hours of MX racing on it thats a good two days and one open practice day.
Another way to tell if it needs changing is by the color of the motor oil. Once it gets to a darker brown its really due to be changed.
Hope this helps.
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Since having the sight glass for the tranny, I like to have a distinctly different color of oil in there -- now using the Redline Lightweight shockproof (light blue).... If it suddenly darkens or the level rises, I can spot a problem early.
Using Mobil One's in the motor, but not stuck on the Red cap, as a few arguements are out there in support of lighter weight oils.
Using Mobil One's in the motor, but not stuck on the Red cap, as a few arguements are out there in support of lighter weight oils.