Just to make sure...
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Just to make sure...
I'll post my setting below but im just making sure these numbers seem right. It's a Blaze map (#32203). I started it up with this map while in my garage when it was about 50 degrees out and it ran great (before it ran like crap). I went back out there tonight and started it up and it ran like crap again when its about 25 degrees out. Anything I should change?
TPS Sensor Closed- 0.31
Open- 4.34
Throttle body leakage- 0.0
Injector Flow Rate- 2603
Injector Offset- 0.88
TPS Sensor Closed- 0.31
Open- 4.34
Throttle body leakage- 0.0
Injector Flow Rate- 2603
Injector Offset- 0.88
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Cannondales are flaky in the cold when they are cold. When you start it just let it sit and warm up for a while. Don't just fire it up and try to rev it as it won't respond to well all the time. Another thing when it gets warmer out you should check the plug to make sure your flowrate isn't too rich. I know fuel injection is supposed to compensate for the temp change, but that was another issue that i have seen. I have more cold weather tips, but start with these and tell me what is going on.
Re: Just to make sure...
QUOTE
Originally posted by MrSlithers
TPS Sensor Closed- 0.31
Open- 4.34
Throttle body leakage- 0.0
Injector Flow Rate- 2603
Injector Offset- 0.88
TPS Sensor Closed- 0.31
Open- 4.34
Throttle body leakage- 0.0
Injector Flow Rate- 2603
Injector Offset- 0.88
Your setting are for your quad. There really isn't anywhere I woudl start except for my previous post.
Actually there were several posts about "cold weather starting" last year as it was a common problem then too. My quad too hated to be started when the temps dropped below freezing.
A couple things to look at: Cold air is more dense and you may need to richen a bit IF you leaned the amount of fuel with your D&M already (they come from the factory rich but in freezing temps, they are right on). One of the things most of us do when we get a D&M is lean it out a bit to stop the fouling plugs, get a little more power and better throttle response, etc..
Next, get the latest version of the hex code.
Lastly, let the quad heat up to temps before riding.
Slithers - Are you sure those settings are the factory settings for your quad? Anytime I see the 2603 as the flowrate, I suspect that the factory settings were replaced with a remapping of the ecu. 2603 is pretty lean as is the amount most maps have preprogrammed in them. You need to make sure you choose the option to keep your factory settings when you remap otherwise it will repalce all your settings with those programmed in the map. If this happened, your throttle calibration and fuel settings could be way off, making the bike nearly useless.
A couple things to look at: Cold air is more dense and you may need to richen a bit IF you leaned the amount of fuel with your D&M already (they come from the factory rich but in freezing temps, they are right on). One of the things most of us do when we get a D&M is lean it out a bit to stop the fouling plugs, get a little more power and better throttle response, etc..
Next, get the latest version of the hex code.
Lastly, let the quad heat up to temps before riding.
Slithers - Are you sure those settings are the factory settings for your quad? Anytime I see the 2603 as the flowrate, I suspect that the factory settings were replaced with a remapping of the ecu. 2603 is pretty lean as is the amount most maps have preprogrammed in them. You need to make sure you choose the option to keep your factory settings when you remap otherwise it will repalce all your settings with those programmed in the map. If this happened, your throttle calibration and fuel settings could be way off, making the bike nearly useless.
Problem patially resolved then. a 200 difference in the flow rate is a lot. And if it's below freezing, you will need to richen up. Your bike is probably popping like crazy and may just bog down or even die when you are on the throttle. If the throttle isn't calibrated right, it can do all sorts of crazy things.
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